Maison 76, Montreuil, France - hotel review: Take a tonic in this old pharmacy

Maison 76 blends luxury with eccentricity in medieval Montreuil-sur-Mer. Oscar Quine soaks up the history

Maison 76 (Michael Bennett)

What can you do in three hours? You could binge-watch half a Netflix series. Have a leisurely lunch. Reorganise your filing system. Or, from London, you could get in your car and drive to northern France. While Eurostar trains have propelled Paris infinitely closer in our minds, the more immediate regions of France, accessible by Eurotunnel, are often overlooked.

The area might not be known for its prettiness – typographically barren, a sort-of extension of Norfolk – but there are some lovely corners. The walled medieval town of Montreuil-sur-Mer is just one, and once the car is safely parked, Maison 76 provides a delightful base from which to explore the town’s historical sites and top-rank restaurants. A pharmacy in its former life, the gorgeous three-storey building brims with original features that have been lovingly restored to their past glory by Englishman Tim Matthews.

The bed

Built in the 18th century, Maison 76 is a substantial building. The drawing room is the main event, with original hand-painted wallpaper, mint-green paintwork and pastoral scenes painted above the doors – it’s breathtaking. A deep sofa, low lighting, and an assortment of antiques make for an indulgent atmosphere. The bedrooms, located up a wide oak staircase, are of good size and the décor here is equally tasteful. Eggshell paint, varnished floorboards, and a bed worthy of a feudal lord continue the uncompromising dedication to luxury.

Each room has an ensuite bathroom, a Nespresso coffee machine and tea set with a jug of fresh milk left in the fridge every morning.

Labour of love: The restored drawing room (Michael Bennett)

The breakfast

Bread and croissants are bought in fresh every day from one of the town’s seven boulangeries. The butter is hand-pressed and the jam is made by Tim. There’s muesli and a choice of cereal too, as well as eggs any way you want them, and a meat and cheese selection. Apple juice is also pressed by Tim, along with an orchard-owning friend.

And, if you get peckish later in the day, you can always help yourself to a slice of homemade lemon drizzle cake; dinner and packed lunches are available on request. There’s also a well-stocked bar with an honesty box.

The host

You need spend only a little time with Tim to realise that Maison 76’s ethos of luxury accented with eccentricity is an expression of his own character. A fan of life’s finer things, he welcomed us on a Friday evening – a little later than planned, but no problem – with an open bottle of wine and a platter of meats, cheeses, and a delicious homemade paté.

Tim was on hand for tips regarding where to visit locally and, fetchingly beaproned, to cook and serve dinner on our return and breakfast when we got up. He even drove us to the local off-licence to buy a couple of bottles of the white wine we so enjoyed over the weekend. His local knowledge is well cultivated; he swaps “bonjours” with the locals in the street, and he knows every drinking hole and half-decent restaurant within 100 miles. In short, a perfect host.

The weekend

Montreuil-sur-Mer has rich offerings for history, literature and musical theatre buffs alike. Victor Hugo set part of his classic novel, Les Misérables, here. Perched on a hill, the town is surrounded by medieval ramparts. Their western flank provides the route for a pleasant walk with views over the poplar-filled valley, through which La Canche river winds.

For those less bothered by such things, and unmoved by the town’s bounty of dining options, there’s plenty to do out of town. Le Touquet is a 25-minute drive away, on the coast. Here, one can revel in the decadent history of the place, which was a virtual British outpost in the 1920s and 1930s. The Floating Gardens of Amiens and the pretty seafront town of Le Crotoy are also within easy reach.

The pit-stop

Montreuil-sur-Mer is a culinary hotspot, and home to around a dozen particularly good restaurants. If you must opt for only one, and the budget allows, Le Grenouillère (00 33 3 21 06 07 22; lagrenouillere.fr) is a sure bet. Alexander Gauthier, named one of the 50 best chefs in the world, has three restaurants here, and this is the jewel in his crown. He puts modern twists on classic French flavours – just the kind of stuff to win over the Michelin reviewers. And it’s done the job: La Grenouillère has two stars.

The essentials

Maison 76, 76 Rue Pierre Ledent, Montreuil, France (00 33 3 60 85 08 49; maison76.com). Doubles from €155, including breakfast.