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Playing it safe

With war looming and fears of terrorist attacks on tourists, where can you go on holiday without having to worry about your dream trip turning into a nightmare? Simon Calder reports on the world's low-risk destinations

Saturday 15 March 2003 01:00 GMT
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The Maldives: "The high number of foreign nationals could make one of the many resort islands an attractive target for a terrorist attack." Denmark: "You should be aware of the risk of indiscriminate terrorist attacks." France: "We believe there is an increased general threat to visibly British institutions from global terrorism."

What is the world coming to, as we slide towards war? For the traveller whose guide is the Foreign and Commonwealth Office, it looks an exceedingly dangerous place. The Government's official travel advice (www.fco.gov.uk) makes similar warnings to almost every country on earth.

So where, in the eyes of the Foreign Office, are you likely to be safe? Trawl through the hundreds of pages of travel advice that it supplies, and you can find a handful of places where the Travel Advice Unit eases its hard line. Places such as the Cape Verde Islands off the west coast of Africa, where visits "are trouble-free, provided sensible precautions are followed", and where this tour of the safe world begins. Be warned, though, that the low-risk status of these destinations could have something to do with the fact that most are extremely difficult and/or expensive to reach.

Cape Verde Islands

Where: a scattering of former Portuguese colonies 3,000 miles south-south-west of Lisbon.

Safety first: "There is no recent history of terrorism in Cape Verde."

How to get there: via Lisbon on TAP Air Portugal (0845 601 0932). About £1,000 return.

What to see: Fog, mostly. Should it clear, you may catch glimpses of the sharp, verdant terrain.

Hidden dangers: "Sea conditions around Cape Verde are sometimes treacherous (there are also many submerged rocks)." If you get into any scrapes, be warned that Our Man in Cape Verde – isn't. HM Ambassador to the archipelago, Alan Burner, resides in Dakar, Senegal. The Honorary British Consul in Cape Verde, Antonio Canuto, "can only offer limited consular assistance in an emergency".

Ascension Island

Where: a dot on the mid-Atlantic ridge, nine hours' flying time south of Brize Norton, that acts as a filling station and listening post.

Safety first: "Crimes or violence against residents or visitors are virtually unknown."

How to get there: The only flights are aboard RAF Tristars, which depart every few days from the Oxfordshire air base. Through Andrew Weir Shipping (020-7265 0808) you will pay £900 return.

What to see: You will be one of the first tourists to enjoy Ascension to the full, since restrictions have been eased only this year. "A popular activity on Ascension Island is walking on Green Mountain and the other dormant volcanoes," says the Foreign Office. Don't worry if it rains, because the Government's travel advice helpfully notes, "Alcohol is cheap".

Hidden dangers: "It is easy to sprain an ankle," adds the FO. "There is a £100 fine for dropping litter."

St Helena

Where: the same longitude as Skye, but without the road bridge.

Safety first: "The vast majority of visits to St Helena are trouble free, and crimes of violence are virtually unknown."

How to get there: aboard RMS St Helena, which sails from Portland in Dorset four times a year and takes three weeks. To get there more quickly, you can board her at Ascension Island; the onward fare costs £345 one way, for a two-night voyage sharing a four-berth cabin. Again, Andrew Weir Shipping (020-7265 0808) is the company you need.

What to see: one of the most isolated societies in the world.

Hidden dangers: "It is an offence to wear T-shirts or clothing in public with offensive slogans."

Falkland Islands

Where: on the 60-degree line of longitude, around 8,000 miles from Britain.

Safety first: "There is little crime or disorder and the risk of terrorism is low."

How to get there: you know that RAF Tristar to Ascension Island? Its final destination is Mount Pleasant, the not-altogether appropriate name for the islands' main airport. The fare from Brize Norton to Mount Pleasant goes up on 1 April to £1,568, if you book through the Falkland Islands Office (020-7222 2542) a month in advance; the price jumps nearly £1,000 if you don't. You can stop over in Ascension at no extra cost. "A compulsory mine briefing is provided by the military upon arrival." And because the plane may not be able to land, "carry some currency in US Dollars in case the flight is diverted to South America or North Africa".

What to see: superb birdlife.

Hidden dangers: "Sunlight can be very bright and the wearing of good sunglasses, hats and a high factor sunscreen is recommended."

South Georgia

Where: a rocky outcrop 800 miles east of the Falklands.

Safety first: "The vast majority of visits to South Georgia are trouble-free."

How to get there: South Georgia has no tourist accommodation, and visitors must receive permission from the government of South Georgia to disembark. The only way to visit as a tourist is as a stop on an Antarctic Cruise. Last Frontiers (01296 653000, www.lastfrontiers.com) does a cruise which takes in South Georgia, the Falklands and South Orkneys among other stops; expect to pay upwards of $3,995.

What to see: if the Falklands were a little too lively for your tastes, you can enjoy the simpler pleasures of South Georgia. "Visitors can purchase stamps from the Post Office and stamps and gifts from the Museum shop on South Georgia."

Hidden dangers: "All of the historic buildings of the former whaling stations at Grytviken, Prince Olav Harbour, Leith Harbour, Stromness and Husvik are in a dangerous state of disrepair and wind-blown debris including asbestos dust presents a significant health risk."

British Antarctic Territory

Where: a slice of the extreme south on a continent that is 58 times bigger than Britain.

Safety first: "The risk of terrorism is extremely low."

How to get there: plan well ahead. You or a tour operator needs a permit from the Foreign Office, for which you must apply "not less than six months before undertaking the proposed activities". It is accessible by boat only between November and February; contact Adventure Network International (001 866 395 6664, www.adventure-network.com) for details of its voyages from Punta Arenas in southern Chile.

What to see: "Visitors can purchase stamps and gifts from the Port Lockroy Post Office/Museum"; oh, and you may see some devastatingly beautiful icescapes.

Hidden dangers: "You should be aware of the risks posed by the harsh climactic conditions."

Pitcairn Island

Where: a scrap of land less than two square miles, halfway between Panama and New Zealand, which loosely translates as a long way from anywhere. It was first occupied by Fletcher Christian and his fellow mutineers from the Bounty, and presently has a population approaching 50.

Safety first: "There have been no terrorist attacks on Pitcairn in its 200-year history."

How to get there: I called the Commissioner for Pitcairn, Leon Salt, at his office in Auckland, New Zealand (00 64 9 366 0186) for advice. "Charter a yacht from Tahiti, fly to meet it in French Polynesia – specifically the Gambier Islands – and it takes about three days from there."

What to see: Mr Salt, who is of Pitcairn descent, says the island society is the main attraction: "The lifestyle, the people: it's simple and self-reliant, the people are in touch with the environment and everything that's around them." The main historic sight is Thursday October House, which is said to have belonged to the first son of Fletcher Christian – Thursday October Christian, born in 1790. Don't expect a racy time: smoking and drinking are against the tenets of the predominant Seventh Day Adventist faith.

Hidden dangers: "The nearest hospital facilities are in French Polynesia... the Governor's Representative on the island can provide advice if required. She can be contacted through the Governor's Office or, if on the island, by knocking on her door."

Kiribati

Where: a vast territory, occupying an area of the mid-Pacific as large as Australia, though with rather less land and fewer people.

Safety first: "We are unaware of any evidence of a threat to western interests in Kiribati."

How to get there: first find a flight to Brisbane (about £500 return from April to June), and pay about the same again for an Air Nauru flight to the capital, Tarawa.

What to see: the surf, the sealife and Second World War relics on Makin Island.

Hidden dangers: "You should not swim in the lagoon in South Tarawa as it is highly polluted."

Solomon Islands

Where: an archipelago north-east of Australia.

Safety first: "You should not venture into parts of rural Guadalcanal, or on to the island of Malaita without first checking the latest advice with the British High Commission. Visits to other provinces are generally trouble-free."

How to get there: fly to Sydney or Brisbane and change there.

What to see: the mountains that rise steeply from the South Pacific.

Hidden dangers: "Swearing is a crime and can lead to large compensation claims and even jail."

Macau

Where: a former Portuguese colony that is now part of China.

Safety first: "The incidence of violent crime to foreigners is low but pickpocketing and other street crime can occur in some areas."

How to get there: fly to Hong Kong and take a boat across to Macau.

What to see: a dilapidated Portuguese colonial city now overawed by skyscrapers and casinos.

Hidden dangers: "Take extra care when visiting casinos late at night. Public offices shut down when the 'Typhoon 8' signal is hoisted. You are advised to remain indoors."

Iceland

Where: a geologically adolescent island dangling from the Arctic Circle north-west of Scotland.

Safety first: "There is no history of terrorism in Iceland."

How to get there: from Heathrow or Glasgow on Icelandair (020-7874 1000, www.icelandair.co.uk), which has packages from £289, or from Stansted on Iceland Express (0870 8500 737, www.icelandexpress.com) for £108 return.

What to see: steaming thermal springs amid dramatic lunar scenery.

Hidden dangers: "Iceland is very expensive – be prepared to spend plenty of money."

Additional research by Alice Rooney

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