DESPITE having a great deal of excellent skiing on hand, St Moritz is something other than a ski resort. People resorted to it before skiing was invented, and it has retained an unparalleled range of sporting activities. Central to this are the lakes, on the frozen surfaces of which take place such diverse activities as golf, cricket, horse racing and polo.

More famously, St Moritz and its Cresta run attract almost as many tobogganers and bobsleighers as the surrounding mountains attract skiers. For scenery-gazers, it is among the most rewarding resorts in the Alps - with abundant footpaths and cross-country trails from which to enjoy the views. And there are lots of other things to see and do.

PLUS POINTS: Extensive ski area; glorious scenery - lakes, mountains and glaciers; fairly snow-sure, thanks to high altitude and snow guns, and despite dry climate; about the best cross-country skiing in the Alps; some excellent mountain restaurants.

MINUS POINTS: Fragmented ski area; queue-prone lift system;access difficult by road or air; poor nursery slopes.