Days out: A festive outing in Oxfordshire

Christmas drinks all year round

Tucked away in the Chilterns, three miles from the M40, is Christmas Common, where the villagers are still arguing over the origin of their address.

In 1643 the Royalists held the heights of the Chilterns while Cromwell's men pitched down below in Watlington. That Christmas the opposing troops called a truce and met here to celebrate. The evidence is wobbly; some say Christmas Common is called thus simply because it is surrounded by plantations of Christmas trees.

Today, Andrew Ingram farms 150 acres of Christmas trees here, and supplies Tesco and Homebase with whole forests of fir, spruce and pine.

To cut out the middleman, pull over at his Tree Barn on the south side of the village and he will sell you one directly. You are also welcome to walk around his farm, as long as you stick to the paths and don't have a saw hidden up your sleeve.

There is only one pub at Christmas Common but it is a good one. The recently refurbished Fox and Hounds, (established 1643) has rambling rooms, log fires, an artillery of local ales and a scampi-free menu. For £24.95, the three-course festive special includes wild boar and orange pâté, sweet potato, parsnip and pumpkin rissoles and Christmas pudding ice cream. Definitely more Jamie Oliver than Oliver Cromwell – and a good thing too.

To work off the lunch, visit Cowleaze Wood Sculpture Trail, out at the north end of the village. Perfect for urbanites who have difficulty dealing with hardcore woodland, the beach, juniper and yew are interspersed with a variety of burlesque artworks. A "stoned" footpath takes you through: trust the silver arrows to lead you through the 70-acre maze (and try not to think of The Blair Witch Project).

When you get out again, you might also care to look up. Chances are you will spot a red kite. These were extinct in 1900 but were reintroduced in 1989, much to the disappointment of local vermin. They are about six foot across, make a sound like a sarcastic seagull and are amazing to watch.

Further north, across the M40, is Chinnor, where you can jump on the Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway. Seven steam trains run per day at weekends and an extra fleet of Santa specials have been laid on for December. Tickets are £7 (you get a present as well) and the seven-mile chug to Thame junction and back takes a relaxing 45 minutes.

From here, you are all set for home, but you might like to try some old-fashioned shopping in Watlington, a market town with a remarkable resemblance to Trumpton. Under the town hall arches, you can stock up on local organic produce.

Take the A4009 south from M40 J6, enter Watlington and turn left at the first T-junction, on to the B480. Climb up to Watlington Hill and Christmas Common is on your right, half a mile further on. Greenhill Farm Tree Barn (01491 612434) sells cut or rooted trees, up to 25 feet high. Book for Christmas lunch at the Fox and Hounds (01491 612599). There is also a snack menu from around £5. Children are welcome. Cowleaze Wood (01420 520212) was closed because of foot and mouth but is now open. Admission free. Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway (01844 353535; www.cprra.co.uk). There is free parking outside Chinnor station. Red kites (www.gigrin.co.uk/redkite.html).