When freshly cut, Stilton has an incomparable crisp, clean taste: the best blue in the world. Sold by Booth's supermarkets and other outlets, Colston Basset Stilton (pictured) is creamy, primrose-yellow with tremendous depth and a lingering aftertaste (£10 per kilo over the Christmas period). Tesco Finest Whole Mature Blue Stilton (2kg, £20), made by Clawson in Melton Mowbray, would be hugely impressive on the table but don't be lured unless you're feeding a multitude. Cut Stilton turns dry and salty with time. Harrod's Blue Stilton Pot (113g, £11.50) is a soft, tangy dessert cheese (perfect with Christmas cake or mince pie) in a posh little pot.