On The Menu: The Electric’s Doughnuts; The big guns; It’s a keeper; Perfect pair; In a stew

Food news and reviews

This week I've been eating... The Electric’s Doughnuts

Consider the doughnut: an everyman food, light in the fingers but heavy on the waistline, beloved of Americans and created, supposedly, in the Netherlands. It is a winning snack. Just ask Daniel Doherty, chef at London's Duck & Waffle, who has transmogrified it into a vehicle for spicy ox cheek, or Heston Blumenthal, who indulged diners with "exploding potato doughnuts" on his latest TV show.

A versatile little thing, then. But at their peak, I think, when "au naturel", with sugar and cinnamon, which is how they're served up at the new Electric Donuts on London's Portobello Road.

But then it is a partnership between Soho House's Nick Jones and American chef Brendan Sodikoff, who is known, among other things, for his Doughnut Vault diner – so they know their onions.

Buy one (£1.50) and wallow in that slight bite on the outside, soft dough, and hint of cinnamon. Best I can remember. theelectric.com

The big guns

Oh to have been a fly on the wall, if not a pheasant in the air, at the Dashwood estate on 1 October when Dom Pérignon took a very Michelin-starry group of chefs shooting. A gang including Brett Graham (The Ledbury), Mark Edwards (Nobu), Eric Chavot (soon at Brasserie Chavot), Anthony Demetre (Wild Honey and Arbutus) is not, I wager, without a competitiveness. How else do you collect seven stars between you? Still, they all survived and are now serving special game dishes matched with a glass of Dom Pérignon Rosé 2000, a drink you usually get only by the bottle in their restaurants.

It’s a keeper

Paxton and Whitfield has indulged in a spot of retro futurism with its Christmas products. The royal cheesemonger, victualling the gentry since the days of the Regency, is now selling preserved cheese. There are Cheddar Rarebit and Stilton and Tawny Port versions – both are very fine. It's an old technique from the days when blue or territorial cheese was much in need of preservation, costing as it did an arm and a leg. The softened cheese is sealed into a ceramic pot with clarified butter and can be used to stuff chicken breasts or as a base for a sauce or on crusty bread. £5.95, paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

Perfect pair

It is easy to sneer when a large supermarket pairs off with a small foodie name, as Asda has done with Leiths since Christmas 2011. One assumes it's a marriage of convenience. The Asda brand gets a bit of Leiths' gold dust and the cookery school gets the extra publicity. But stuff my mouth with mince pies if the stuff is not actually pretty superb, especially given the price. The chocs are a delight and the all-butter Christmas trees are a thing you could get hooked on. asda.com

In a stew

The New York Soup Company seems to have trouble grasping when a soup becomes a stew – or so it seems with its "fully loaded" barbecue pulled-pork and bean soup. Not one to relish – it lies, brick-like, in the stomach. If you want a lighter warmer, go for the chunky lentils or the chilli chicken instead.

Arts and Entertainment
TVShow's twee, safe facade smashed by ice cream melting scandal
News
newsVideo for No campaign was meant to get women voting
News
A photo of Charles Belk being detained by police on Friday 22 August
news
News
news
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
Sport
Alexis Sanchez celebrates after scoring his first goal for Arsenal in the Champions League qualifier against Besiktas
sportChilean's first goal for the club secures place in draw for Champions League group stages
Arts and Entertainment
Amis: 'The racial situation in the US is as bad as it’s been since the Civil War'
booksAuthor says he might come back across Atlantic after all
Extras
indybest
Life and Style
Google Doodle celebrates the 200th birthday of Irish writer Sheridan Le Fanu
tech
Arts and Entertainment
Vinyl demand: a factory making the old-style discs
musicManufacturers are struggling to keep up with the resurgence in vinyl
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Food & Drink

    Business Development Manager / Sales Pro

    £30 - 35k + Uncapped Comission (£70k Y1 OTE): Guru Careers: A Business Develop...

    Graduate Sales Executive / Junior Sales Exec

    £18k + Uncapped Commission (£60k Y1 OTE): Guru Careers: A Graduate Sales Exe...

    Web Developer / Software Developer

    £25 - 60k (DOE): Guru Careers: A Web Developer / Software Developer is needed ...

    Oracle 11g SQL 2008 DBA (Unix, Oracle RAC, Mirroring, Replicati

    £6000 - £50000 per annum + Bonus+Benefits+Package: Harrington Starr: Oracle 11...

    Day In a Page

    Israel-Gaza conflict: No victory for Israel despite weeks of death and devastation

    Robert Fisk: No victory for Israel despite weeks of devastation

    Palestinians have won: they are still in Gaza, and Hamas is still there
    Mary Beard writes character reference for Twitter troll who called her a 'slut'

    Unlikely friends: Mary Beard and the troll who called her a ‘filthy old slut’

    The Cambridge University classicist even wrote the student a character reference
    America’s new apartheid: Prosperous white districts are choosing to break away from black cities and go it alone

    America’s new apartheid

    Prosperous white districts are choosing to break away from black cities and go it alone
    Amazon is buying Twitch for £600m - but why do people want to watch others playing Xbox?

    What is the appeal of Twitch?

    Amazon is buying the video-game-themed online streaming site for £600m - but why do people want to watch others playing Xbox?
    Tip-tapping typewriters, ripe pongs and slides in the office: Bosses are inventing surprising ways of making us work harder

    How bosses are making us work harder

    As it is revealed that one newspaper office pumps out the sound of typewriters to increase productivity, Gillian Orr explores the other devices designed to motivate staff
    Manufacturers are struggling to keep up with the resurgence in vinyl records

    Hard pressed: Resurgence in vinyl records

    As the resurgence in vinyl records continues, manufacturers and their outdated machinery are struggling to keep up with the demand
    Tony Jordan: 'I turned down the chance to research Charles Dickens for a TV series nine times ... then I found a kindred spirit'

    A tale of two writers

    Offered the chance to research Charles Dickens for a TV series, Tony Jordan turned it down. Nine times. The man behind EastEnders and Life on Mars didn’t feel right for the job. Finally, he gave in - and found an unexpected kindred spirit
    Could a later start to the school day be the most useful educational reform of all?

    Should pupils get a lie in?

    Doctors want a later start to the school day so that pupils can sleep later. Not because teenagers are lazy, explains Simon Usborne - it's all down to their circadian rhythms
    Prepare for Jewish jokes – as Jewish comedians get their own festival

    Prepare for Jewish jokes...

    ... as Jewish comedians get their own festival
    SJ Watson: 'I still can't quite believe that Before I Go to Sleep started in my head'

    A dream come true for SJ Watson

    Watson was working part time in the NHS when his debut novel, Before I Go to Sleep, became a bestseller. Now it's a Hollywood movie, too. Here he recalls the whirlwind journey from children’s ward to A-list film set
    10 best cycling bags for commuters

    10 best cycling bags for commuters

    Gear up for next week’s National Cycle to Work day with one of these practical backpacks and messenger bags
    Paul Scholes: Three at the back isn’t working yet but given time I’m hopeful Louis van Gaal can rebuild Manchester United

    Paul Scholes column

    Three at the back isn’t working yet but given time I’m hopeful Louis van Gaal can rebuild Manchester United
    Kate Bush, Hammersmith Apollo music review: A preamble, then a coup de théâtre - and suddenly the long wait felt worth it

    Kate Bush shows a voice untroubled by time

    A preamble, then a coup de théâtre - and suddenly the long wait felt worth it
    Robot sheepdog technology could be used to save people from burning buildings

    The science of herding is cracked

    Mathematical model would allow robots to be programmed to control crowds and save people from burning buildings
    Tyrant: Is the world ready for a Middle Eastern 'Dallas'?

    This tyrant doesn’t rule

    It’s billed as a Middle Eastern ‘Dallas’, so why does Fox’s new drama have a white British star?