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Food Miles: Cutting-edge cuisine at Britain's country-house hotels

Imagine yourself on a weekend away at a British country-house hotel, and thoughts of afternoon tea on the terrace and reading the papers over a full English breakfast may well spring to mind. But those traditions have now been supplemented by some of the most modern cooking happening anywhere in the country.

Mange Tout, By Bruno Loubet

"OH JESUS." Such is the two-word response fired back at me by a friend on receipt of my latest invitation to be a gastronomic guinea pig for this column. But then, to be fair to her, she was present at my inaugural Cooking the Books dinner, aka "The Gwyneth Paltricide"; this time, I assure her, I'm dealing with a far more benevolent recipe provider, namely Bruno Loubet.

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