The odds are stacked against the Wright Brothers. First of all, their latest restaurant is in Spitalfields Market, which nobody aged 30 or over should ever be seen near. Second, this is a seafood place, and I've just come back from Italy and Cornwall, where I had so much fish that the thought of another crustacean makes me ill. Third, this restaurant is out and proud about its crustacea – which means you have the dubious pleasure of seeing them fighting in huge tanks barely two metres from the seating area. Fourth, this opening is part of a chain (the third of its kind in the capital, following openings in Soho and Borough market), and your correspondent demands higher standards from chains. Fifth, I am in an extremely foul mood, had you not twigged, having just had my latest in a series of contretemps with a fellow journalist.
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Saturday 17 August 2013
The arrival of grouse in our kitchens is a perfect moment to try varied recipes for a great meal, says our chef
On the Menu: Sweetbreads at One Leicester Street; hummus; Quintessentially vodka; East End Feast; Urban Night Feast
Thursday 08 August 2013
This week I've been eating...sweetbreads at One Leicester Street
Wednesday 07 August 2013
As the mercury rises, dip your fashion toes into the cooling blues and greens of the sea, says Emma Akbareian
Sunday 04 August 2013
It was a moment when those of us long-haul time-travellers had to reassure ourselves that we weren’t suffering from Plasmaton-induced psychotronic hyperstimulation.
Sunday 04 August 2013
It could be the unusual weather, disease, or both, but something is laying waste to Gallic fisheries
Sunday 21 July 2013
This mass-marketisation of one our most highly-prized foods is now in evidence
Sunday 21 July 2013
Good things come to he who waits. He, in this case, being the most singular waiter one could hope to meet, says Amol Rajan.
Friday 19 July 2013
A face full of snails might not be your average person's idea of an expensive salon treatment, but that's just what Japan's high society have been shelling out for lately - at a cost of £65 for a five minute session.
Wines of the week: Nativa Organic Carmenère 2009; Domaine Des Grands Bois Viognier 2012; Castillo de Marqueda 2009
Sunday 23 June 2013
Terry Kirby selects the best bottles to buy
Thursday 20 June 2013
The crustacean might be fiddly to prepare and less flashy than lobster, but it’s also sweeter, more delicately flavoured – and perfect for enjoying right now.
On The Menu: Tay Do's spicy squid; Ceviche: Peruvian Kitchen; Bloom London Dry Gin; Byron; Tio Pepe Diners' toothpaste
Thursday 13 June 2013
This week I've been eating... Spicy squid
Thursday 30 May 2013
3 shallots, sliced into half moons
1 garlic clove, crushed under a knife and then finely sliced
250ml medium-dry cider
250ml chicken stock
100ml double cream
4 sprigs of tarragon
Sourdough bread, to serve
Friday 17 May 2013
A sort of bestiary of myth, legend and animal analogy, Wilderness uses wildlife traits as jumping-off points for enigmatic tales in typical Handsome Family manner.
Wednesday 15 May 2013
If this was supposed to be the preliminary sketch for an Epsom masterpiece, then for now Liber Nauticus remains closer to an oil tanker than a dashing ocean clipper. Nonetheless she finds herself disputing favouritism for the Investec Oaks, bookmakers having taken an indulgent view of the heavy weather she made of her trial here.
Sunday 28 April 2013
The secret report that helps Israel hide facts
Land for gas: Merkel and Putin discussed secret deal could end Ukraine crisis
Woman and two children killed by mob in riots over 'blasphemous' Facebook post in Pakistan
Richard Dawkins tweets: 'Date rape is bad, stranger rape is worse'
Putin is 'thuggish, dishonest and reckless', says British ambassador to US
Boozy, ignorant, intolerant, but very polite – Britain as others see us
- 2 Pope Francis issues top 10 tips for happiness – including don’t try to convert other people
- 4 Disney heiress Abigail disowns her share of family profits in West Bank company
- 5 Israel's propaganda machine is finally starting to misfire