News Getting the hump: camels do battle in front of tens of thousands of spectators

On Sunday, more than 20,000 people will gather in Turkey to watch camels do battle in a spectacle that dates back thousands of years. It is, depending on your attachment to the ungainly beasts, a historic cultural institution to be celebrated – or a throwback to an era before animal-rights campaigns when it was OK to starve an animal for three months to make it cross.

THE LEGACY OF GEORGE ADAMSON STILL REMAINS AT KORA - BUT ONLY JUST

TEN YEARS ago George Adamson was shot dead by Somali bandits as he drove his Land Rover at an armed poaching gang in an effort to save a friend. He was killed at Kora, the dry tract of land in the north-east of Kenya where he had lived and worked with lions.

Arts: Pretty vacant: a fine line in glossy charm

Gary Hume works in gloss housepaint on aluminium. The appeal is elusive, yet his work stands out at this year's Edinburgh Festival. Tom Lubbock wonders why

The Broader Picture: Fiddler on the hoof

THIS IS DAGIRANZ, a retired Mongolian superstar, playing his horse- headed fiddle to a gathering of camels. Dagiranz was discovered in a local talent competition in his early forties, and duly became the country's most celebrated singer - their homegrown Bing Crosby. His career was long and distinguished: he starred in many films and had a large, faithful following, but when he reached the age of 70 he decided to retire. After living for 26 years in Ulan Bataar, the capital of Mongolia, he made the journey back to the region on the edge of the Gobi Desert where his family had lived for generations, and where he had grown up.

Luxor by Lada

There are many ways to explore Egypt, but the best is by local taxi. Just make sure you arrive at your tomb of choice. By David Sharp

War in the Balkans: Serbia's man tries to win over Beirut

War in the Balkans: Diplomacy

World: Kazakhs struggle to refill their lost sea

Draining the Aral destroyed a way of life. Sue Lloyd-Roberts reports on attempts to bring the water back

Travel: Where heaven meets hell

Sally Ramsden followed Moses's footsteps up Mount Sinai - and issued a few commandments of her own

DREAMING OF FLIGHT

A hundred years ago, ostrich plumes suddenly became more valuable than gold. Rob Nixon, who was brought up near the ostrich farms of South Africa, recalls the elaborate fantasies that the gawky big birds inspired

Praising Arizona

One million retired Americans have left family, home and responsibility behind and taken to the road. Many have congregated in a dusty Arizona town called Quartzsite. Andrew Gumbel went to visit them. Photographs by Robert Gallagher

Travel: Heat, dust and philosophy

City softy Jeremy Atiyah rides a camel, survives a storm and contemplates life as a nomad in the Oman desert

Sometimes, you need to get away from the same old routine

Glowering clouds, wet window panes, a black sea, gulls floating on the storm, bandy-legged men hitching up their robes to wade through ankle-deep rivers where streets should be, cardboard boxes, old pieces of furniture and sheep heads floating through the market place. That's right. It's early evening in southern Arabia. I'm in Oman to ride a camel across a desert.

One man and his camcorder trace lost Amazon explorer

BENEDICT ALLEN, the maverick adventurer who gained fame and notoriety for his "one-man-and-his-camels" travels in the outer reaches of Mongolia and Namibia, has retraced the steps of an explorer who disappeared more than 70 years ago.

Trainer guilty of cruelty to chimp

MARY CHIPPERFIELD, a member of the most famous circus family in the world, was convicted yesterday of 12 counts of cruelty to a baby chimpanzee.

Chipperfield convicted in cruelty case

MARY CHIPPERFIELD, a member of the most famous circus family in the world, was convicted of 12 counts of cruelty to a baby chimpanzee.

Travel: Literally lost: 64

This excerpt has been taken from a work of travel literature. Readers are invited to tell us:
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3D printed bump keys can access almost any lock
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Burgundy, the River Rhone & Provence – MS Swiss Corona - seven nights from £999pp
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The other Mugabe who is lining up for the Zimbabwean presidency

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Wife of President Robert Mugabe appears to have her sights set on succeeding her husband
The model of a gadget launch: Cultivate an atmosphere of mystery and excitement to sell stuff people didn't realise they needed

The model of a gadget launch

Cultivate an atmosphere of mystery and excitement to sell stuff people didn't realise they needed
Alice Roberts: She's done pretty well, for a boffin without a beard

She's done pretty well, for a boffin without a beard

Alice Roberts talks about her new book on evolution - and why her early TV work drew flak from (mostly male) colleagues
Get well soon, Joan Rivers - an inspiration, whether she likes it or not

Get well soon, Joan Rivers

She is awful. But she's also wonderful, not in spite of but because of the fact she's forever saying appalling things, argues Ellen E Jones
Doctor Who Into the Dalek review: A classic sci-fi adventure with all the spectacle of a blockbuster

A fresh take on an old foe

Doctor Who Into the Dalek more than compensated for last week's nonsensical offering
Fashion walks away from the celebrity runway show

Fashion walks away from the celebrity runway show

As the collections start, fashion editor Alexander Fury finds video and the internet are proving more attractive
Meet the stars of TV's Wolf Hall... and it's not the cast of the Tudor trilogy

Meet the stars of TV's Wolf Hall...

... and it's not the cast of the Tudor trilogy
Weekend at the Asylum: Europe's biggest steampunk convention heads to Lincoln

Europe's biggest steampunk convention

Jake Wallis Simons discovers how Victorian ray guns and the martial art of biscuit dunking are precisely what the 21st century needs
Don't swallow the tripe – a user's guide to weasel words

Don't swallow the tripe – a user's guide to weasel words

Lying is dangerous and unnecessary. A new book explains the strategies needed to avoid it. John Rentoul on the art of 'uncommunication'
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Daddy, who was Richard Attenborough?

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Kacey Musgraves: Nashville's hottest new star

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Soldier-poet Brian Turner on his new memoir

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Villa were not surprised that Vlaar was a World Cup star

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Bill Granger's simple Italian salads

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The Last Word: Tumbleweed through deserted stands and suites at Wembley

The Last Word: Tumbleweed through deserted stands and suites at Wembley

If supporters begin to close bank accounts, switch broadband suppliers or shun satellite sales, their voices will be heard. It’s time for revolution