News Getting the hump: camels do battle in front of tens of thousands of spectators

On Sunday, more than 20,000 people will gather in Turkey to watch camels do battle in a spectacle that dates back thousands of years. It is, depending on your attachment to the ungainly beasts, a historic cultural institution to be celebrated – or a throwback to an era before animal-rights campaigns when it was OK to starve an animal for three months to make it cross.

THE LEGACY OF GEORGE ADAMSON STILL REMAINS AT KORA - BUT ONLY JUST

TEN YEARS ago George Adamson was shot dead by Somali bandits as he drove his Land Rover at an armed poaching gang in an effort to save a friend. He was killed at Kora, the dry tract of land in the north-east of Kenya where he had lived and worked with lions.

Arts: Pretty vacant: a fine line in glossy charm

Gary Hume works in gloss housepaint on aluminium. The appeal is elusive, yet his work stands out at this year's Edinburgh Festival. Tom Lubbock wonders why

The Broader Picture: Fiddler on the hoof

THIS IS DAGIRANZ, a retired Mongolian superstar, playing his horse- headed fiddle to a gathering of camels. Dagiranz was discovered in a local talent competition in his early forties, and duly became the country's most celebrated singer - their homegrown Bing Crosby. His career was long and distinguished: he starred in many films and had a large, faithful following, but when he reached the age of 70 he decided to retire. After living for 26 years in Ulan Bataar, the capital of Mongolia, he made the journey back to the region on the edge of the Gobi Desert where his family had lived for generations, and where he had grown up.

Luxor by Lada

There are many ways to explore Egypt, but the best is by local taxi. Just make sure you arrive at your tomb of choice. By David Sharp

War in the Balkans: Serbia's man tries to win over Beirut

War in the Balkans: Diplomacy

World: Kazakhs struggle to refill their lost sea

Draining the Aral destroyed a way of life. Sue Lloyd-Roberts reports on attempts to bring the water back

Travel: Where heaven meets hell

Sally Ramsden followed Moses's footsteps up Mount Sinai - and issued a few commandments of her own

DREAMING OF FLIGHT

A hundred years ago, ostrich plumes suddenly became more valuable than gold. Rob Nixon, who was brought up near the ostrich farms of South Africa, recalls the elaborate fantasies that the gawky big birds inspired

Praising Arizona

One million retired Americans have left family, home and responsibility behind and taken to the road. Many have congregated in a dusty Arizona town called Quartzsite. Andrew Gumbel went to visit them. Photographs by Robert Gallagher

Travel: Heat, dust and philosophy

City softy Jeremy Atiyah rides a camel, survives a storm and contemplates life as a nomad in the Oman desert

Sometimes, you need to get away from the same old routine

Glowering clouds, wet window panes, a black sea, gulls floating on the storm, bandy-legged men hitching up their robes to wade through ankle-deep rivers where streets should be, cardboard boxes, old pieces of furniture and sheep heads floating through the market place. That's right. It's early evening in southern Arabia. I'm in Oman to ride a camel across a desert.

One man and his camcorder trace lost Amazon explorer

BENEDICT ALLEN, the maverick adventurer who gained fame and notoriety for his "one-man-and-his-camels" travels in the outer reaches of Mongolia and Namibia, has retraced the steps of an explorer who disappeared more than 70 years ago.

Trainer guilty of cruelty to chimp

MARY CHIPPERFIELD, a member of the most famous circus family in the world, was convicted yesterday of 12 counts of cruelty to a baby chimpanzee.

Chipperfield convicted in cruelty case

MARY CHIPPERFIELD, a member of the most famous circus family in the world, was convicted of 12 counts of cruelty to a baby chimpanzee.

Travel: Literally lost: 64

This excerpt has been taken from a work of travel literature. Readers are invited to tell us:
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Pompeii, Capri & the Bay of Naples
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Lake Garda
Minoan Crete and Santorini
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Orthorexia nervosa

How becoming obsessed with healthy eating can lead to malnutrition
Lady Chatterley is not obscene, says TV director

Lady Chatterley’s Lover

Director Jed Mercurio on why DH Lawrence's novel 'is not an obscene story'
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Set a pest to catch a pest

Farmers in tropical forests are training ants to kill off bigger pests
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Being sexually assaulted was not your fault, Chrissie Hynde. Don't tell other victims it was theirs

Being sexually assaulted was not your fault, Chrissie Hynde

Please don't tell other victims it was theirs
A nap a day could save your life - and here's why

A nap a day could save your life

A midday nap is 'associated with reduced blood pressure'
If men are so obsessed by sex, why do they clam up when confronted with the grisly realities?

If men are so obsessed by sex...

...why do they clam up when confronted with the grisly realities?
The comedy titans of Avalon on their attempt to save BBC3

Jon Thoday and Richard Allen-Turner

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Part-privatised tests, new age limits, driverless cars: Tories plot motoring revolution

Conservatives plot a motoring revolution

Draft report reveals biggest reform to regulations since driving test introduced in 1935
The Silk Roads that trace civilisation: Long before the West rose to power, Asian pathways were connecting peoples and places

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Long before the West rose to power, Asian pathways were connecting peoples and places
House of Lords: Outcry as donors, fixers and MPs caught up in expenses scandal are ennobled

The honours that shame Britain

Outcry as donors, fixers and MPs caught up in expenses scandal are ennobled
When it comes to street harassment, we need to talk about race

'When it comes to street harassment, we need to talk about race'

Why are black men living the stereotypes and why are we letting them get away with it?
International Tap Festival: Forget Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers - this dancing is improvised, spontaneous and rhythmic

International Tap Festival comes to the UK

Forget Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers - this dancing is improvised, spontaneous and rhythmic
War with Isis: Is Turkey's buffer zone in Syria a matter of self-defence – or just anti-Kurd?

Turkey's buffer zone in Syria: self-defence – or just anti-Kurd?

Ankara accused of exacerbating racial division by allowing Turkmen minority to cross the border