Travel Hannah and Chico take the long way round Wales

How one travel-writer's innovative journey round the Welsh coast led to a starring role for her four-legged companion

Country Matter: Old Brock stars in set piece

THE FIRST vixen could not wait for dark to fall. There she stood, hovering on the edge of the shrubbery, lured, no doubt, by the smell of peanuts, which had been liberally scattered over the lawn. Inside the house, about 30 watchers clustered at two large bay windows, one upstairs, one down.

Travel: Holidays made to measure: Some agents still tailor travel to the adventurous client

ON PAGE 24 of the new Aito Directory of Real Holidays is a listing of the 'Really Unusual Holidays' offered by its members. This selection includes an Amazon paddling expedition, donkey-riding in the Cevennes, treks in the traces of the Cathars, stage-coach driving and wildebeest migration.

The Way I Was: Riding for a fall on old Neddy: Richard Dunwoody tells Nicholas Roe how he dreamt as a child of winning at Aintree

MY FATHER tells the story that when I was three - about the age I am in the photo - he led me out on a donkey called Neddy, and while he was doing the gate he let go and the donkey ran off across field, bucking and kicking, with me on the back. As we say in racing, he buried me half-way across the field.

Abused donkeys lose sanctuary in debt fight: Jonathan Foster reports on a charitable venture and its colourful founder at the centre of legal wrangles and an official investigation

SADDLED with some heavy emotional baggage, a string of abused donkeys have become pariahs on the frozen uplands of Derbyshire.

BOOK REVIEW / Donkeys and billiards: Jonathan Keates tackles a tempting feast of operatic work. 'The Viking Opera Guide' - Ed. Amanda Holden, Nicholas Kenyon and Stephen Walsh: Viking, 60 pounds

One of my favourite silly games is imagining the operas that might have been created by the great masters from the fictional and dramatic successes of their respective eras. How about Rossini's Pride and Prejudice, for example, full of impossibly roulade-encrusted arias for 'Elisabetta' and 'Darci'? Why didn't Mozart turn The School For Scandal into La Scuola delle Pettegolezze, with Sir Peter Teazle singing 'Contessa, perdono]' to his wronged wife in the last act? Little Dorrit would have given Verdi a splendid opportunity for one of his great father-daughter duets. As for that unwritten meisterwerk, Wagner's Middlemarch, with Casaubon as a sort of Beckmesser, Bulstrode doing a Victorian Alberich and Dorothea yodelling to Ladislaw over a Bayreuth-sized band, I leave this to your consideration.

A critical Guide: A Critical Guide: For children

Cinemagic (cinemas across Northern Ireland, 0232 232444, to 16 Dec). Unique film festival for six to 17-year-olds: 35 films including Tarka the Otter, ET, Emily's Ghost and the UK premiere of Free Willy, an adventure story about a boy and a whale.

Racing: How and Why Pat Eddery will be the next champion jockey

Pat Eddery will secure the Flat jockeys' championship at the end of the Turf season a fortnight tomorrow. It will be the 41-year-old Irishman's 10th title since he rode his first winner, Alvaro, back in 1969. He notched up the 2,000 Guineas on Zafonic and the Irish Derby and Oaks double on Commander In Chief and Wemyss Bight, and he has not only ridden more winners than any other jockey in Britain this year but has comfortably the best strike rate, around 21 per cent.

Donkey man jailed

A seaside donkey owner was jailed for three months after he admitted causing suffering to his animals. Blackpool magistrates also banned John Gardner, 49, from keeping animals of any kind for the next 30 years.

Leadership based on what the papers say

JOHN MAJOR's sensitivity to the press has often been commented on. He is reputed to scramble for the first editions every day, like an actor after a first night. But an actor who had so little success in convincing his Fleet Street critics would soon end up playing third peasant in regional rep. Once again last weekend, the Prime Minister's fascination with newspapers must have been an appalled fascination.

Education: An outside chance for the unsporting: Susan Elkin thinks pupils should be let out of classrooms for better reasons than mere fun and games

THE END of another warmish summer term, my 25th in teaching. Sports Day arrives as inexorably as Christmas.

Scarborough: postcards from the edge: Once golden sands and donkey rides were the big attraction. Now visitors come to watch the town's only four-star hotel fall into the sea. Sandra Barwick reports

A PINK washbasin with a mirror above reflected back blue sky. A white net curtain stirred above a void. 'Nice curtains]' said a woman, watching avidly. 'I could do with some of them]'

He just didn't give a damn: Alan Clark's unattractive self-portrait masks a complex nature, writes Michael Cockerell

IN HIS scandalous diaries, published this week, Alan Clark reveals himself as a man covered with warts. But, as I discovered when making a television documentary about him, his self-portrait is misleadingly incomplete. The case against him is formidable. He is a social elitist, a white supremacist, who cheats on his wife and betrays the confidences of his friends. If there were nothing more to him than that, he should be pronounced guilty and consigned to oblivion. But he is a more complex and interesting figure.

Football: Beating the world with a clenched fist: Jeered by opposing fans, cheered by fellow professionals, Tony Adams is considered by some to be the very face of English football. Richard Williams reports

THERE'S a man in front of me, an Arsenal season-ticket holder, and he's wearing a pair of huge plastic donkey's ears. They're attached to a piece of wire, concealed under a baseball cap. He's sitting in the front row of the main stand at Highbury, and the ears waggle as he jumps up and down. Anybody who goes to football recognises these ears for what they are: a weird tribute to Tony Adams, the Arsenal captain and centre-half, 'The Donkey' to opposing fans, a player who inspires unusual extremes of affection and distaste.

Country Matters: The hills are alive with the sound of muck-spreaders

THE HARASSMENT of poor Corky the cockerel, who had to be deported from his home in north Devon after a neighbour had complained about the power of his crowing, made me pay particular attention one day to the sounds emanating from our own farmyard and its environs. How long, I wondered, would a newcomer to the countryside stand the rural racket before seeking a noise abatement order?

The Agreeable World of Wallace Arnold: Sic transit gloria Garrick

I WAS so livid I couldn't get the sentence out. 'W-w-what is happening this to once of great country ours?' I spluttered. I took a deep breath and tried again. 'Th-th-this once what country of ours to happening great is?' Again, no luck. My blood was boiling, albeit proverbially. 'I'm terribly sorry,' I said. 'You'll have to bear with me.' At last, after a couple of stiff whiskies, I managed to stammer it out: 'What is happening to this once great country of ours?'
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Independent Travel
Pompeii, Capri & the Bay of Naples
Dubrovnik, the Dalmatian Coast & Montenegro
Burgundy, the River Rhone & Provence
Lisbon, Oporto and the Douro Valley
Lake Garda, Venice & Verona
Spain
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Woman who was sent to three Nazi death camps describes how she escaped the gas chamber

Auschwitz liberation 70th anniversary

Woman sent to three Nazi death camps describes surviving gas chamber
DSK, Dodo the Pimp, and the Carlton Hotel

The inside track on France's trial of the year

Dominique Strauss-Kahn, Dodo the Pimp, and the Carlton Hotel:
As provocative now as they ever were

Sarah Kane season

Why her plays are as provocative now as when they were written
Murder of Japanese hostage has grim echoes of a killing in Iraq 11 years ago

Murder of Japanese hostage has grim echoes of another killing

Japanese mood was against what was seen as irresponsible trips to a vicious war zone
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Celebrities call on David Cameron to take more Syrian refugees

One young mother tells of torture by Assad regime
The enemy within: People who hear voices in their heads are being encouraged to talk back – with promising results

The enemy within

People who hear voices in their heads are being encouraged to talk back
'In Auschwitz you got used to anything'

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Survivors of the Nazi concentration camp remember its horror, 70 years on
Autumn/winter menswear 2015: The uniforms that make up modern life come to the fore

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The uniforms that make up modern life come to the fore
'I'm gay, and plan to fight military homophobia'

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Army general planning to come out
Iraq invasion 2003: The bloody warnings six wise men gave to Tony Blair as he prepared to launch poorly planned campaign

What the six wise men told Tony Blair

Months before the invasion of Iraq in 2003, experts sought to warn the PM about his plans. Here, four of them recall that day
25 years of The Independent on Sunday: The stories, the writers and the changes over the last quarter of a century

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The stories, the writers and the changes over the last quarter of a century
Homeless Veterans appeal: 'Really caring is a dangerous emotion in this kind of work'

Homeless Veterans appeal

As head of The Soldiers' Charity, Martin Rutledge has to temper compassion with realism. He tells Chris Green how his Army career prepared him
Wu-Tang Clan and The Sexual Objects offer fans a chance to own the only copies of their latest albums

Smash hit go under the hammer

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Geeks who rocked the world: Documentary looks back at origins of the computer-games industry

The geeks who rocked the world

A new documentary looks back at origins of the computer-games industry
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Belle & Sebastian is taking a new direction

Twenty years ago, Belle & Sebastian was a fey indie band from Glasgow. It still is – except today, as prime mover Stuart Murdoch admits, it has a global cult following, from Hollywood to South Korea