Life and Style

How do five designers alight on the same obscure inspiration? How are ‘trends’ born?

SEX APPEAL

The 20th century is the age of mass-produced, mass-broadcast sex. Anyone who wasn't raised by dingos in the Australian outback can clock that truism about capitalism in less time than it takes to consume a Haagen- Dazs. But the process of sexualising objects started way before ice-cream companies decided to imbue their frozen yoghurts with something a bit more potent than freeze-dried strawberries.

Bazaar

Rock the casbah, urges the Belgian designer Dries Van Noten. Styling by Sophia Neophitou. Photographs by Thiemo Sanders

Fashion: Nature of a man-made fabric

Another cellulose fibre? This is different. It's called Tencel, and promises to be the silk of the future. By Tamsin Blanchard

Why Paul and Tim won't ever be Kate and Naomi

Sorry boys, it's a woman's world on the catwalk. Hester Lacey on why male models don't make household names

girls will be boys

In the new unisex stores and on the street, what's his is hers. Shw wea rs desert boots, flat-front trousers and boys' school shirts.

Letter: Model males

Sir: In response to Jack O'Sullivan's call for new role models for men in 1997 ("Men plumb the depths of bad behaviour", 26 December), my own hero list is: Frank Zappa, Jean-Paul Gaultier, John Kenneth Galbraith and Brian Eno.

let us spray: sniffing out the glitterati

It's as star-studded as the Oscars and twice as fragrant: Liesl Schillinger drops in on the perfume awards in New York

Fashion: disco nights

High glam, high times. The most celebrated club of the Seventies, Studio 54 in New York, opened 19 years ago. This is where Bianca Jagger entered on a white horse, where Truman Capote held court among the chorus boys, and where only the famous or outrageous ever got past the door-ropes. A film is already under discussion. Now fashion designers are looking back to the decade when disco divas thought nothing of wearing a pair of sequined loons with a Lurex boob tube. To anyone born after 1970, the clothes in these pages - by Katharine Hamnett, Jean Paul Gaultier, Paul Smith and Yves Saint Laurent - do much more than reinvent that era; they exemplify ultramodern chic. Photographs by Jane Mcleish

GAULTIER FASHION

THE cube-shaped ticket sent out by Jean-Paul Gaultier for his show on Friday night should have been a clue that the designer has developed square eyes from watching and presenting too much `Eurotrash', writes Tamsin Blanchard. Guests were seated on polystyrene cubes; video screens relayed American model Amber Valetta stating "my head is a cube". Then out came the clothes, a whole series of building-brick-cubist rubber dresses in bright blocks of colour, followed by kitsch Sixties print coats and trouser suits. The show was held at the icy, disused Paris railway shed that designers had been opting for last week.

Review: Vegetal; Theatre de la Ville, Paris

It was a short career, but a glorious one: Jean-Michel Basquiat made sure of that.

A passion for feasting

A LITTLE TOO MUCH IS ENOUGH by Kathleen Tyau, Women's Press pounds 6.99

Mine's a Coke - no, make that a Pammy

I once went to a wedding in which the best man compared the bride to a pint of beer: "Good head, firm body and satisfying to hold." The guests laughed heartily; the bride, to my amazement, cooed and blushed - with delight - while I hastily relegated this alarming comparison to the back of my mind.

FASHION: Buy me: Knickerbox slip

We all know the story by now: underwear can be worn out. Out of the confines of the bedroom, out from underneath your clothes, out on the street, even out on your coffee table, (see Kelly Klein's new book Underworld). And it's not shocking.

an INDEPENDENT week

It will be dry until Wednesday, then frost, with rain in the North- east and the South-west on Tuesday. Whatever, here's an eclectic look at what you could possibly do, see, or buy this week ...
Arts and Entertainment
Attenborough with the primates
tvWhy BBC producers didn't want to broadcast Sir David Attenborough's famed Rwandan encounter
News
Campbell: ‘Sometimes you have to be economical with the truth’
newsFormer spin doctor says MPs should study tactics of leading sports figures like José Mourinho
Sport
football
Life and Style
Agretti is often compared to its relative, samphire, though is closer in taste to spinach
food + drink
News
Kelly Osbourne will play a flight attendant in Sharknado 2
people
News
Down-to-earth: Winstone isn't one for considering his 'legacy'
people
News
The dress can be seen in different colours
i100
Sport
Wes Brown is sent-off
football
Voices
Lance Corporal Joshua Leakey VC
voicesBeware of imitations, but the words of the soldier awarded the Victoria Cross were the real thing, says DJ Taylor
Life and Style
Alexander McQueen's AW 2009/10 collection during Paris Fashion Week
fashionMeet the collaborators who helped create the late designer’s notorious spectacles
Career Services

Day In a Page

Independent Travel
Pompeii, Capri & the Bay of Naples
Seven Cities of Italy
Burgundy, the River Rhone & Provence
Prague, Budapest and Vienna
Lake Garda
3.	Provence 6 nights B&B by train from £599pp
Prices correct as of 20 February 2015
War with Isis: Fears that the looming battle for Mosul will unleash 'a million refugees'

The battle for Mosul will unleash 'a million refugees'

Aid agencies prepare for vast exodus following planned Iraqi offensive against the Isis-held city, reports Patrick Cockburn
Yvette Cooper: We can't lose the election. There's too much on the line

Yvette Cooper: We can't lose the election. There's too much on the line

The shadow Home Secretary on fighting radical Islam, protecting children, and why anyone in Labour who's thinking beyond May must 'sort themselves out'
A bad week for the Greens: Leader Natalie Bennett's 'car crash' radio interview is followed by Brighton council's failure to set a budget due to infighting

It's not easy being Green

After a bad week in which its leader had a public meltdown and its only city council couldn't agree on a budget vote, what next for the alternative party? It's over to Caroline Lucas to find out
Gorillas nearly missed: BBC producers didn't want to broadcast Sir David Attenborough's famed Rwandan encounter

Gorillas nearly missed

BBC producers didn't want to broadcast Sir David Attenborough's famed Rwandan encounter
Downton Abbey effect sees impoverished Italian nobles inspired to open their doors to paying guests for up to €650 a night

The Downton Abbey effect

Impoverished Italian nobles are opening their doors to paying guests, inspired by the TV drama
China's wild panda numbers have increased by 17% since 2003, new census reveals

China's wild panda numbers on the up

New census reveals 17% since 2003
Barbara Woodward: Britain's first female ambassador to China intends to forge strong links with the growing economic superpower

Our woman in Beijing builds a new relationship

Britain's first female ambassador to China intends to forge strong links with growing economic power
Courage is rare. True humility is even rarer. But the only British soldier to be awarded the Victoria Cross in Afghanistan has both

Courage is rare. True humility is even rarer

Beware of imitations, but the words of the soldier awarded the Victoria Cross were the real thing, says DJ Taylor
Alexander McQueen: The catwalk was a stage for the designer's astonishing and troubling vision

Alexander McQueen's astonishing vision

Ahead of a major retrospective, Alexander Fury talks to the collaborators who helped create the late designer's notorious spectacle
New BBC series savours half a century of food in Britain, from Vesta curries to nouvelle cuisine

Dinner through the decades

A new BBC series challenged Brandon Robshaw and his family to eat their way from the 1950s to the 1990s
Philippa Perry interview: The psychotherapist on McDonald's, fancy specs and meeting Grayson Perry on an evening course

Philippa Perry interview

The psychotherapist on McDonald's, fancy specs and meeting Grayson Perry on an evening course
Bill Granger recipes: Our chef recreates the exoticism of the Indonesian stir-fry

Bill Granger's Indonesian stir-fry recipes

Our chef was inspired by the south-east Asian cuisine he encountered as a teenager
Chelsea vs Tottenham: Harry Kane was at Wembley to see Spurs beat the Blues and win the Capital One Cup - now he's their great hope

Harry Kane interview

The striker was at Wembley to see Spurs beat the Blues and win the Capital One Cup - now he's their great hope
The Last Word: For the good of the game: why on earth don’t we leave Fifa?

Michael Calvin's Last Word

For the good of the game: why on earth don’t we leave Fifa?
HIV pill: Scientists hail discovery of 'game-changer' that cuts the risk of infection among gay men by 86%

Scientists hail daily pill that protects against HIV infection

Breakthrough in battle against global scourge – but will the NHS pay for it?