Life and Style

How do five designers alight on the same obscure inspiration? How are ‘trends’ born?

SEX APPEAL

The 20th century is the age of mass-produced, mass-broadcast sex. Anyone who wasn't raised by dingos in the Australian outback can clock that truism about capitalism in less time than it takes to consume a Haagen- Dazs. But the process of sexualising objects started way before ice-cream companies decided to imbue their frozen yoghurts with something a bit more potent than freeze-dried strawberries.

Bazaar

Rock the casbah, urges the Belgian designer Dries Van Noten. Styling by Sophia Neophitou. Photographs by Thiemo Sanders

Fashion: Nature of a man-made fabric

Another cellulose fibre? This is different. It's called Tencel, and promises to be the silk of the future. By Tamsin Blanchard

Why Paul and Tim won't ever be Kate and Naomi

Sorry boys, it's a woman's world on the catwalk. Hester Lacey on why male models don't make household names

girls will be boys

In the new unisex stores and on the street, what's his is hers. Shw wea rs desert boots, flat-front trousers and boys' school shirts.

Letter: Model males

Sir: In response to Jack O'Sullivan's call for new role models for men in 1997 ("Men plumb the depths of bad behaviour", 26 December), my own hero list is: Frank Zappa, Jean-Paul Gaultier, John Kenneth Galbraith and Brian Eno.

let us spray: sniffing out the glitterati

It's as star-studded as the Oscars and twice as fragrant: Liesl Schillinger drops in on the perfume awards in New York

Fashion: disco nights

High glam, high times. The most celebrated club of the Seventies, Studio 54 in New York, opened 19 years ago. This is where Bianca Jagger entered on a white horse, where Truman Capote held court among the chorus boys, and where only the famous or outrageous ever got past the door-ropes. A film is already under discussion. Now fashion designers are looking back to the decade when disco divas thought nothing of wearing a pair of sequined loons with a Lurex boob tube. To anyone born after 1970, the clothes in these pages - by Katharine Hamnett, Jean Paul Gaultier, Paul Smith and Yves Saint Laurent - do much more than reinvent that era; they exemplify ultramodern chic. Photographs by Jane Mcleish

GAULTIER FASHION

THE cube-shaped ticket sent out by Jean-Paul Gaultier for his show on Friday night should have been a clue that the designer has developed square eyes from watching and presenting too much `Eurotrash', writes Tamsin Blanchard. Guests were seated on polystyrene cubes; video screens relayed American model Amber Valetta stating "my head is a cube". Then out came the clothes, a whole series of building-brick-cubist rubber dresses in bright blocks of colour, followed by kitsch Sixties print coats and trouser suits. The show was held at the icy, disused Paris railway shed that designers had been opting for last week.

Review: Vegetal; Theatre de la Ville, Paris

It was a short career, but a glorious one: Jean-Michel Basquiat made sure of that.

A passion for feasting

A LITTLE TOO MUCH IS ENOUGH by Kathleen Tyau, Women's Press pounds 6.99

Mine's a Coke - no, make that a Pammy

I once went to a wedding in which the best man compared the bride to a pint of beer: "Good head, firm body and satisfying to hold." The guests laughed heartily; the bride, to my amazement, cooed and blushed - with delight - while I hastily relegated this alarming comparison to the back of my mind.

FASHION: Buy me: Knickerbox slip

We all know the story by now: underwear can be worn out. Out of the confines of the bedroom, out from underneath your clothes, out on the street, even out on your coffee table, (see Kelly Klein's new book Underworld). And it's not shocking.

an INDEPENDENT week

It will be dry until Wednesday, then frost, with rain in the North- east and the South-west on Tuesday. Whatever, here's an eclectic look at what you could possibly do, see, or buy this week ...
Life and Style
Steve Shaw shows Kate how to get wet behind the ears and how to align her neck
healthSteven Shaw - the 'Buddha of Breaststroke' - applies Alexander Technique to the watery sport
News
A poster by Durham Constabulary
news
Sport
Cameron Jerome
footballCanaries beat Boro to gain promotion to the Premier League
Arts and Entertainment
Performers drink tea at the Glastonbury festival in 2010
music
Arts and Entertainment
Emily McDowell Card that reads:
artCancer survivor Emily McDowell kicks back at the clichés
Sport
footballShirt then goes on sale on Gumtree
Arts and Entertainment
Twin Peaks stars Joan Chen, Michael Ontkean, Kyle Maclachlan and Piper Laurie
tvBadalamenti on board for third series
Life and Style
tech
Sport
Standing room only: the terraces at Villa Park in 1935
football
Sport
Ben Stokes celebrates with his team mates after bowling Brendon McCullum
sportEngland vs New Zealand report
Latest stories from i100
Career Services

Day In a Page

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Independent Travel
Pompeii, Capri & the Bay of Naples
Seven Cities of Italy
Burgundy, the River Rhone & Provence
Prague, Budapest and Vienna
Lake Garda
Minoan Crete and Santorini
Prices correct as of 15 May 2015
Abuse - and the hell that came afterwards

Abuse - and the hell that follows

James Rhodes on the extraordinary legal battle to publish his memoir
Why we need a 'tranquility map' of England, according to campaigners

It's oh so quiet!

The case for a 'tranquility map' of England
'Timeless fashion': It may be a paradox, but the industry loves it

'Timeless fashion'

It may be a paradox, but the industry loves it
If the West needs a bridge to the 'moderates' inside Isis, maybe we could have done with Osama bin Laden staying alive after all

Could have done with Osama bin Laden staying alive?

Robert Fisk on the Fountainheads of World Evil in 2011 - and 2015
New exhibition celebrates the evolution of swimwear

Evolution of swimwear

From bathing dresses in the twenties to modern bikinis
Sun, sex and an anthropological study: One British academic's summer of hell in Magaluf

Sun, sex and an anthropological study

One academic’s summer of hell in Magaluf
From Shakespeare to Rising Damp... to Vicious

Frances de la Tour's 50-year triumph

'Rising Damp' brought De la Tour such recognition that she could be forgiven if she'd never been able to move on. But at 70, she continues to flourish - and to beguile
'That Whitsun, I was late getting away...'

Ian McMillan on the Whitsun Weddings

This weekend is Whitsun, and while the festival may no longer resonate, Larkin's best-loved poem, lives on - along with the train journey at the heart of it
Kathryn Williams explores the works and influences of Sylvia Plath in a new light

Songs from the bell jar

Kathryn Williams explores the works and influences of Sylvia Plath
How one man's day in high heels showed him that Cannes must change its 'no flats' policy

One man's day in high heels

...showed him that Cannes must change its 'flats' policy
Is a quiet crusade to reform executive pay bearing fruit?

Is a quiet crusade to reform executive pay bearing fruit?

Dominic Rossi of Fidelity says his pressure on business to control rewards is working. But why aren’t other fund managers helping?
The King David Hotel gives precious work to Palestinians - unless peace talks are on

King David Hotel: Palestinians not included

The King David is special to Jerusalem. Nick Kochan checked in and discovered it has some special arrangements, too
More people moving from Australia to New Zealand than in the other direction for first time in 24 years

End of the Aussie brain drain

More people moving from Australia to New Zealand than in the other direction for first time in 24 years
Meditation is touted as a cure for mental instability but can it actually be bad for you?

Can meditation be bad for you?

Researching a mass murder, Dr Miguel Farias discovered that, far from bringing inner peace, meditation can leave devotees in pieces
Eurovision 2015: Australians will be cheering on their first-ever entrant this Saturday

Australia's first-ever Eurovision entrant

Australia, a nation of kitsch-worshippers, has always loved the Eurovision Song Contest. Maggie Alderson says it'll fit in fine