Life and Style

How do five designers alight on the same obscure inspiration? How are ‘trends’ born?

Tender women: Decorative images of women have been a recurring theme on banknotes since the 17th century. Iain Gale put his hand in his pocket

The Queen looks up from a five-pound note with a serene smile, her presence transforming what was a mere piece of paper into something of real value. But what of the other side? For hundreds of years, bankers have debated long and hard over what or who to show on the reverse of their currency. And nine times out of 10, the answer has been a woman.

FASHION / On the Eve

FOR THOSE supermodel-spotters who are by now feeling rather tired of the winsome sweetness of Kate Moss, here's the antidote. Eve Salvail (pronounced Evv) is the 22-year-old French Canadian model who for the past two years, since she shaved her head and had her scalp tattooed, has been making them sit up on the front row of the international catwalk shows. A Sinead O'Connor among supermodels, she is noted for her beautiful-aggressive looks and a cavalier attitude to modelling agencies, which she changes with careless regularity. In fact, she says, she doesn't want an agency, just a manager, preferably her friend and companion Pina Rizzi, from whom she's rarely separated.

Newsbrief: Shady activity

Sunglasses worth pounds 1m have been stolen from a Battersea warehouse. The haul of 7,000 to 8,000 frames, including designs by Jean Paul Gaultier, were taken from a store in Queenstown Road.

Look who's talking: Male and female below the waist: The fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier explains how he managed to get so close to Madonna's breasts

WAS I ever a fashion victim myself? Never. Well, maybe in 1970 I was a bit. I wasn't a victim in the sense of blindly doing whatever was in fashion, but I would wear what I thought suited me.

Cricket: Last chance for an enigma: Derek Pringle tries to unravel the puzzle of an unfulfilled talent

CHRIS LEWIS is a puzzle. For starters he thinks nothing of spending a fortune on designer clothes (Jean-Paul Gaultier at present) yet he reckons the room service surcharge in Guyana is a rip-off. He reads the Bible in public but Tom Sharpe in private and is addicted to Chinese food and the telephone. He might bowl swing or pace - brilliantly or indifferently - and alternates between batting like a beginner and batting like a genius.

Gaultier warms to vision of the cold North

THE FIRST thing an Inuit woman does in the morning is chew her husband's boots to soften them up.

FASHION / castaway (those trousers)

YOU'RE a man. You're fed up with trousers and zips, braces and button flies. Well why not take the plunge this year? Try a skirt. For spring/summer 1994, nearly every international designer followed up the experiment Jean-Paul Gaultier started years ago. A lot of their 'skirts' were simply lengths of fabric wrapped and tied like the traditional sarong, but worn with suit jackets and sweaters: Paul Smith used muslin; Katharine

FASHION / The puritan look

THIS SEASON, designers got religion. At the Paris shows in October, Helmut Lang produced shifts that would have graced novitiates in a convent. Not to be outdone, Jean Paul Gaultier plagiarised the dress of Hasidic Jews. And in New York, Calvin Klein eschewed the Hamptons and took a trip to Amish country. Even Prada, the Milanese company much loved by urban hedonists, did penance by producing a collection of shifts, albeit in velvet and suede rather than sackcloth. And now the clothes of the prayer meeting are on the streets: pinafores and shifts over plain white shirts under long lean coats with lace-up boots. Despite the rather unlikely sources, it is a rewarding look for most of us - simple, pure and flattering. But as a sign that we are becoming more spiritual? Unlikely.

Dear Santa: Some image counselling for the worst-dressed seasonal icon

Look, I know this is a busy time for you. The last thing you need is to be plagued by yet another wheedling, simpering Oh-please-Santa-can-I-have sort of letter. But bear with me. I want to give you something. Advice.

TELEVISION / Lauouaof? I nearly bought the Garden Weasel

'IF THE sponsor doesn't like it,' rages the talk-show host in The Larry Sanders Show (BBC 2), 'they can screw a light bulb up my ass and use me as a desk lamp.' The alert among you will notice something unusual about this remark from an American comedy - its strong flavour and unrestrained aggression, for example, which are as startling in this context as a jalapeno pepper in a bowl of cornflakes. The explanation is simple - The Larry Sanders Show was first shown on cable in America, which allows it considerable liberties of language and tone, not least in the way that it talks about network television.

Fashion: Big names with grand designs for Aids

RIFAT OZBEK, British Designer of the Year, has lost close friends to Aids, including the model and designer Tina Chow and the photographer Stevie Hughes. Ozbek, who co-founded Aids Crisis Trust, is now encouraging fellow fashion designers from around the world to join him in making an enormous quilt to commemorate friends who have died.

Drags and strictures at an exhibition

WHO WOULD have thought, a few years ago, that drag - that old staple of stage, panto and party - would pass into contemporary mores?

Style: Who is that guy everyone's talking about?: Roger Tredre delves into the world of the secretive Martin Margiela, one of the hottest names to emerge from the fashion underground this year

IN THE spring of 1993, Martin Margiela is possibly the most fashionable designer in the world. For years he was associated with the fashion underground. Most people within the industry knew his name, but few bought his clothes. He was loved only by hipper-than-thou fashion students and readers of i-D magazine. Now his time has come.

Fashion: Any shape you choose is still beautiful in Babedom: Lisa Armstrong hears a philosophy of life that is absolutely brill

THE best thing about Boobs, Boys and High Heels, or How to Get Dressed in Just under Six Hours, the debut book from the sometime model Dianne Brill, is not that it tells you that cheap mayonnaise makes great hair conditioner or that lots of lip liner and powder will make your lipstick kiss-proof, but that it amply demonstrates how far self-belief can get you.
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Refugee crisis: David Cameron lowered the flag for the dead king of Saudi Arabia - will he do the same honour for little Aylan Kurdi?

Cameron lowered the flag for the dead king of Saudi Arabia...

But will he do the same honour for little Aylan Kurdi, asks Robert Fisk
Our leaders lack courage in this refugee crisis. We are shamed by our European neighbours

Our leaders lack courage in this refugee crisis. We are shamed by our European neighbours

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Joe Biden's 'tease tour': Could the US Vice-President be testing the water for a presidential run?

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Britain's 24-hour culture: With the 'leisured society' a distant dream we're working longer and less regular hours than ever

Britain's 24-hour culture

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Diplomacy board game: Treachery is the way to win - which makes it just like the real thing

The addictive nature of Diplomacy

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Lady Chatterley's Lover: Racy underwear for fans of DH Lawrence's equally racy tome

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Take inspiration from DH Lawrence's racy tome with equally racy underwear
8 best children's clocks

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Charlie Austin: Queens Park Rangers striker says ‘If the move is not right, I’m not going’

Charlie Austin: ‘If the move is not right, I’m not going’

After hitting 18 goals in the Premier League last season, the QPR striker was the great non-deal of transfer deadline day. But he says he'd preferred another shot at promotion
Isis profits from destruction of antiquities by selling relics to dealers - and then blowing up the buildings they come from to conceal the evidence of looting

How Isis profits from destruction of antiquities

Robert Fisk on the terrorist group's manipulation of the market to increase the price of artefacts
Labour leadership: Andy Burnham urges Jeremy Corbyn voters to think again in last-minute plea

'If we lose touch we’ll end up with two decades of the Tories'

In an exclusive interview, Andy Burnham urges Jeremy Corbyn voters to think again in last-minute plea
Tunisia fears its Arab Spring could be reversed as the new regime becomes as intolerant of dissent as its predecessor

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King Arthur: Legendary figure was real and lived most of his life in Strathclyde, academic claims

Academic claims King Arthur was real - and reveals where he lived

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Who is Oliver Bonas and how has he captured middle-class hearts?

Who is Oliver Bonas?

It's the first high-street store to pay its staff the living wage, and it saw out the recession in style
Earth has 'lost more than half its trees' since humans first started cutting them down

Axe-wielding Man fells half the world’s trees – leaving us just 422 each

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60 years of Scalextric: Model cars are now stuffed with as much tech as real ones

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