Paperback: A Hedonist in the Cellar, by Jay McInerney

Bloomsbury £8.99

Reviewed,Boyd Tonkin
Friday 28 December 2007 19:12 GMT
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From the moody, mighty reds of California to the pale hidden treasures of Alsace and the cool-country sensations of New Zealand, McInerney casts a novelist's as well as a connoisseur's eye (and nose) over his favourite wines in this caseful of enjoyable essays. Matching personal foibles with expert advice, and branching out into bubblies, Armagnac and even absinthe, his book tastes crisper and richer than you might expect from an upscale writer's hobby columns. He's pretty sound on food-matching (Viognier and Gewurztraminer with Asian spice). Indeed, you might even care to consult this volume before choosing festive booze.

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