Eating & Drinking: Quantity control

URGENT message. Christmas imminent. Wine needed in light-industrial quantities. In short: time for buying by numbers, my annual exercise in choosing bevvy for Yuletide celebrations. This week and next I'm scanning the multiples, as well as a small group of independents, to select a set of wines to see you through the Christmas meal. With each, I have chosen a sherry, white wine or Champagne as an aperitif, a red wine to accompany the turkey or goose, and lastly, a pudding or after dinner wine.

As usual, there are two categories: budget and top-end. But I have pitched the total spend for three bottles somewhat lower - a maximum of around pounds 25 for budget, pounds 35 at the top end - on the assumption that many imbibers are saving for the big M. In choosing, I have tried to look outside "classic" areas.

SAFEWAY

Budget All-Iberian. Please, please buy a sherry of real class - Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Fino Muy Seco (pounds 7.96, all stores). This elegant beauty is sublimely smooth, with crisp, nutty fruit, and cheap at the price. This leaves enough for two outstanding bottles from Portugal: Tinto da Anfora 1995, Alentejo (pounds 5.99, 379 stores), a juicy, savoury red, and Graham's Late Bottled Vintage 1994 (pounds 11.23, 390 stores), a well rounded LBV port from the great 1994 harvest.

Top-end Safeway is one of numerous outlets for Green Point Vintage Brut 1995 (pounds 11.49, 238 stores), the Australian sparkler recommended previously here, and a warmly toasty Champagne- alternative. For the turkey, look no further than Errzuriz Merlot Reserva 1997 (pounds 9.99, 129 stores), one of the consummately well made reds from this top-notch Chilean producer. The money left over can go on the Graham's LBV or, just as interesting (and cheaper), Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese 1996 (pounds 7.95, 67 stores), a Mosel of moderate sweetness, immoderate candied-peel fruit, and big acidity.

TESCO

Budget Another New World threesome. To start, Thelema Sauvignon Blanc 1999 (pounds 10.99, Wine Advisor stores only), a soft, ripe South African with fine acidity and full gooseberry-exotic fruit flavours. Continue with Bright Brothers TFN Douro 1997 (pounds 6.99, 85 stores), an oak-smoothed blend of classic Douro grapes with ripe, sweet tannins. Finally: dessert wines are not Tesco's great strength, but Lenz Moser Beerenauslese 1995 (pounds 5.49/37.5cl, 28 largest stores only) is a decent example of the great sweet wines from in Burgenland in Austria.

Top-end Tesco's Christmas offering of Pommery Brut NV (pounds 16.99 from pounds 20.99) qualifies as a serious bargain. But I'd be almost as happy with Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg 1995, Gustave Lorentz (pounds 14.99, 85 stores), an off- dry dazzler with profoundly aromatic lychee flavours; equally good with smoked salmon or a light dessert. Some people would say that Valdivieso Malbec Reserva 1997 (pounds 8.99) is too chocolatey-rich for turkey, but it's such a fantastic wine that you won't get many complaints. Graham's LBV 1991 (pounds 10.99) - another great year - provides the perfect finish.

ODDBINS

Budget I propose starting with one of Oddbins' Greek oddities: Tsantili Ambelonas 1998, Halkidiki (pounds 5.99), a fleshy Sauvignon Blanc/Assyriko blend with delicious gooseberry and melon fruit. For the main course, a delicious low-price star from the south of France: Chateau de Combebelle, 1997 Saint- Chinian (pounds 5.49), excellent concentration, subtle oak, good structure. Those low prices leave room for a bottle of Von Buhl Forster Kitchenstuck Riesling Spatlese 1997, Pfalz (pounds 9.99), whose full bloom of honeyed citrus shows a perfect balance between sweetness and acidity.

Top-end Oddbins is selling Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart Brut 1991 for pounds 29.99. While 1991 was not as distinguished as 1990 in Champagne, this is a wonderful wine from a great house. Otherwise, the peaches-and- cream smoothness and fresh acidity of the organic white Bonterra Viognier 1998 (pounds 9.99) make for a good aperitif wine. Main course: if you like claret, Oddbins has a slew of impressive 1996s. Most are still young, but Chateau Larrivet-Haut-Brion 1996, Pessac-Leognan (pounds 16.99) is rich, spicy and very drinkable. Decant it. To finish the meal plump for D'Arenberg Nostalgie Rare Tawny (pounds 11.99/37.5cl), an Australian pretending to be a 10-year-old tawny port - and doing a very good job.

MAJESTIC

Budget Lead off with one of Majestic's German bargains: Trierer Deutschherenkopfchen Riesling Kabinett 1992 (pounds 4.99), which tingles with lime-cordial fruit and fine acidity. The price goes down by 50p if you buy two bottles, so there's lots of dosh left for Gigondas 1996, Guigal (pounds 9.99), a muscular red with bright peppers-and-berries on the palate. And still enough left for Moulin Touchais 1986 (pounds 9.49), which shows what great, long-lasting sweet wines the Loire can make from its underrated Chenin Blanc.

Top-end I really can't think of a better starter than that Kabinett. Unless it's Amontillado Viejo Pastrana (pounds 16.99), from Hidalgo: austere but richly layered with almond flavours, this is a sherry to die for. For the main course, back to Argentina for Gran Vino Caves de Weinert 1994 (pounds 9.99), a Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend giving loads of complex fruit and big but not painful tannins. To finish - the Moulin Touchais again. Unless you want to bust the budget and wallow in the unctuous orange- marmalade flavours of Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos 1995 (pounds 13.99). Your bank manager might not appreciate it, but you certainly will.

Next week: more buying by numbers