Grapevine: Kathryn McWhirter on Budgen

THE wine range at Budgen is mediocre, judging by the couple of dozen I tasted this month. There are a few good wines on the shelves, but you have to search hard to find them. A new 'fine wine' section has some good (pricey) ones, but it is confined to four stores out of 98.

**1991 Tuilerie du Bosc Blanc, Cotes de Saint-Mont ( pounds 3.89). Crisp, dry, full-bodied white with honey and greengage flavours.

*1991 Chateau de Malijay, Fontanilles, Cotes-du-Rhone ( pounds 3.99). Soft, perfumed red, peppery and raisiny.

*1989 Madiran, Domaine des Fiteres Castets, Sebastien Tournay ( pounds 3.99). Full, fruity red with some nice 'farmyardy' flavours.

BEST BUYS ELSEWHERE THIS MONTH

WHITES UNDER pounds 3.50

*Khan Krum Reserve Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc ( pounds 2.99 Gateway & Somerfield). Fruity, grassy and oaky.

1992 Tesco International Winemaker Basilicata Bianco ( pounds 2.99, reduced to pounds 2.69 from 15 August to 4 September, Tesco). Very good for southern Italian white, crisp and appley.

REDS UNDER pounds 3.50

**1991 Killawarra South East Australian Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon ( pounds 3.49 Oddbins). Soft, aromatic, minty and leathery, with fresh, raspberry fruit. Excellent value.

*1992 International Winemaker Malbec Mendoza ( pounds 3.29 Tesco). Lovely rich fruit.

*1990 Valpolicella Classico Negarine, Pasqua ( pounds 3.45 Sainsbury's). Fragrant, cherry-fruity.

WHITES UNDER pounds 5

**1991 Trajadura Vinho Verde, Casal Garcia, Aveleda ( pounds 3.99 Gateway & Somerfield). Dry, lemony, perfumed Portuguese wine.

**1992 Bourgogne Chardonnay Boisset, Charles de France ( pounds 4.99 Victoria Wine). Fresh and honeyed, with a little complexity.

REDS UNDER pounds 5

**1989 Chateau Guibon, Bordeaux ( pounds 4.59 Thresher, Wine Rack, Bottoms Up). Lovely, well-priced, soft, ripe claret.

**1991 Orlando RF Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia ( pounds 4.99 Victoria Wine). A big mouthful of oak and blackcurrant.

**1991 Vermiglio di Ripanera, Vino da Tavola ( pounds 4.79 Victoria Wine). Serious, Chianti-style red with firm tannin and ripe fruit.