TASTES; Claudia Roden's favourite restaurant

Food writer Claudia Roden rhapsodises about Dal Pescatore (00 39 0376 723001), in the hamlet of Runate, near Cremona, Mantova, Italy. The Santini family's restaurant is small - 28 covers only - but perfectly formed, and boasts three Michelin stars.

"Fishing is in the family. The grandfather was a fisherman and the restaurant used to grill and sell his catch. They are into traditional food - river eels, ducks, geese, frog's legs, saffron risotto - but they do the old dishes in such a way that they are transformed into haute cuisine. Their tortelli de zuca [pumpkin] are the best I've ever eaten. The baby eels are fantastic."

Claudia Roden's `The Food of Italy: Region by Region' is published by Vintage at pounds 9.99