WAITER!

Sarastro

126 Drury Lane, WC2 (0171-836 0101)

Mad operatic extravaganza whose decor would make anyone want to stay till kicking-out time. The fact that you can wait a lifetime for food doesn't matter, as food is most definitely not a reason for visiting.

Momo

25 Heddon St, W1 (0171-434 4040)

Extra-trendy Moroccan restaurant whose downstairs bar is crammed to the rafters with fashion PRs. Staff seem to be more there for decorative effect than remembering to bring your food.

Made in Italy

249 King's Rd, SW3 (0171-352 1880)

Romantic little rustic Italian place where it's hard to get attention, but everything's so laid-back you somehow don't mind.

Andrew Edmunds

46 Lexington St, W1 (0171-437 5708)

Popular, crowded. Soho-arty joint serves solid food and excellent wine. Good for getting your elbows on the table and confessing.