The Warren is a basement wine bar, attached to the Grafton Hotel, which has a sort of benign characterlessness that you rarely find in London these days, though anyone who has tried to fill a few hours on a business trip will be familiar with the sort of thing. There's nothing objectionable here: turquoise wallpaper in a tasteful small stripe, polite barmen, reasonable privacy in booths, non-poisonous food at acceptable prices (pounds 4.85 for a main course) and a reasonable wine list at pounds 7.75-pounds 14.95. It's useful because it's a civilised place in an area that's quite short on them, but the most memorable thing about it is the ladies' loo, which is done up like a tart's breakfast with air freshener, muzak and hanging Kleenex boxes.
The Warren, Fitzroy Court, W1 (0171-388 4131)
Serena Mackesy
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