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Boom in organic and Fairtrade chocolates means you can eat as much as you like

Rosalind Ryan
Saturday 01 December 2007 01:00 GMT
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There's nothing like curling up on the sofa with a slab of chocolate over the Christmas holidays, watching the reflection from the fairy lights twinkle in the foil wrapping as you break off another chunk. At times of pure indulgence like this, it can be difficult to remember there are others who may not be having such an extravagant time of year. However, thanks to the continuing growth in organic, Fairtrade and ethical chocolates, you can support others less fortunate than yourself, while still getting a coca-fuelled fix.

The Pesticides Action Network says cocoa is the second most heavily sprayed crop in the world, just after cotton. But growing organic chocolate uses natural methods of pest and fungus control, which can also help cocoa farmers gain more control over their own produce.

As consumers become more aware of where their food comes from and how it is produced, it is no wonder our appetite for organic chocolate keeps increasing. "Our latest report revealed organic chocolate is more popular than ever," says Victoria Record from the Soil Association. "Last year, 170 new organic chocolates were launched globally, including some by 'traditional' confectioners such as Nestl."

The UK's leading supplier of organic chocolate is still Green & Black's, with sales worth 36m in January 2007. With such impressive figures, it seems unbelievable that when Craig Sams, the founder of Green & Black's, launched the brand, people said it couldn't be done.

"We had people saying, 'You'll never sell this sort of thing'. No one had ever talked about chocolate in terms of the actual cocoa beans or the pods, or the people who grew them before," says Sams. "When we went into supermarkets to talk to chocolate buyers, we had to take a cocoa pod with us, as most of them had never seen one."

It was an article in The Independent in 1991 that gave Sams the boost he needed for mainstream buyers to take him seriously. With the headline "Right on and good for you too", the article encapsulated the message that Sams was trying to promote, and that Green & Black's still honours today.

In 1994, Green & Black's produced the dark chocolate, orange and spice, Maya Gold bar, which was the first product in the UK to earn the Fairtrade mark. "It was organic, ethical and it was delicious," says Sams. Fairtrade products are those that guarantee disadvantaged workers in the developing world a better price for their raw produce. This helps them improve their standard of living and gives them more control over their environment and their future. Sams said he would pay a fair and fixed price to his cocoa producers in Belize because he was keen to encourage sustainability he would always be supplied with high quality cocoa and the workers on the cocoa farms would not abandon their plots to look for better paid work elsewhere. It was a system that worked and has been followed by many other manufacturers since. Now you can buy fair trade tea, coffee, bananas and even footballs!

Of course, Green & Black's is not the only green chocolatier in the UK. Luckily for chocoholics with a conscience, there is a growing number of smaller British makers who are producing chocolates that tick both the "delicious" and "kind to people and the planet" boxes (see panel right for who, what and where to buy).

"You don't have to sacrifice taste to be ethical," says Sams. "Many people don't see themselves as an organic consumer, but everybody likes good chocolate. There's no reason you can't have both."

Confectionery with a soft centre

Green & Blacks

In 2005, the "grandaddy" of ethical chocolates was bought by Cadbury, leading critics to accuse them of selling out, but Craig Sams saw the sale as protecting their brand. "When I see Nestl and Mars producing organic chocolates, I heave a sigh of relief that we have Cadbury on our side otherwise they would crush us," he says.

1.69 approx. Available from supermarkets nationwide.

NewTree

This Belgian producer blends chocolate with herbs, spices and plants yes, plants known for their health benefits. The milk chocolate with lavender and lime blossom is a must for unwinding after Christmas shopping, while the dark chocolate and ginger can rev you up for some mistletoe action. The chocolate is not organic, but the makers aim to be carbon-neutral by 2009.

1.99 approx. Available from supermarkets nationwide or www.waitrose.com

Montezuma's

This independent chocolatier is G&B's funky younger brother. "We wanted to create an innovative brand with the best quality chocolate," says founder Simon Pattinson. Bars containing a blend of peppercorns, or dried mango slices dipped in white chocolate with lime and chilli, certainly do that. The cocoa beans are organic but not fair trade Pattinson says they pay a higher price to their farmers to guarantee the best quality. They also give their entire advertising budget to charity.

From 1.99, www.montezumas.co.uk or John Lewis foodhalls.

Duchy Originals

You would expect the Prince of Wales's pet food project to deliver high quality organic food, while preserving the environment, and Duchy does just that. The luxury chocolate assortment boxes make great Christmas presents (one for them, one for you) and the 70 per cent dark chocolate thins can satisfy even the most intense cravings. The chocolates are not fair trade, but all Duchy's profits go to the Prince's Charities Foundation.

From 5.99. Available from supermarkets nationwide

Divine

In a reversal of most other brands, all Divine's chocolates are fair trade, but not organic. Their cocoa beans come from Ghana, which is vital to the economy, and the Ghanian cocoa board is cautious about making the crop pesticide-free to help protect their "black gold". Divine's new dark chocolate bar with fruit and nuts gives traditional choc '*' fruit bars a welcome shake up.

1.04 approx. Available from supermarkets and Oxfam

Raw Gaia

For the ultimate chocoholic, you can wear it too. Organic skincare company Raw Gaia has just launched a raw chocolate face pack. Raw chocolate is one of the richest sources of wrinkle-fighting antioxidants and the crushed beans are combined with clay and Ayurvedic herbs to smooth and tone the skin. Just mix with water and apply to the face. Sadly eating it is not recommended.

8.20 from www.rawgaia.com and selected health food shops

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