Wines of the Week: <br/>1999 Mandolin California Chardonnay; <br/>1999 Vacqueyras Domaine de la Bouscati&egrave;re,

If you've been put off in the past by Californian chardonnay's tendency to confected sweetness, this elegant dry white crafted in the burgundian mould is subtly flavoured with undertones of popcorn-like butterscotch and vanilla. It's versatile enough to handle roast monkfish or pork, and finally, represents a California chardonnay costing less than £7 that doesn't disappoint.

White: 1999 Mandolin California Chardonnay, £6.49, Waitrose

If you've been put off in the past by Californian chardonnay's tendency to confected sweetness, this elegant dry white crafted in the burgundian mould is subtly flavoured with undertones of popcorn-like butterscotch and vanilla. It's versatile enough to handle roast monkfish or pork, and finally, represents a California chardonnay costing less than £7 that doesn't disappoint.

Red: 1999 Vacqueyras Domaine de la Bouscatière, Tesco

One in the traditional southern Rhône village style. With the Mediterranean's grenache and cinsault grapes tempered by syrah and mourvèdre, there's a whiff of the peppermill on this aromatic red, whose tight fistful of spicy, dark cherry-like fruitiness cries out for a beef Stroganoff or a succulent roast, or even, weather permitting, some barbecued ribs.