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8. GUCCI

Penny Martin
Friday 05 September 2008 13:31 BST
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Good on Gucci's head designer, Frida Giannini, for recognising the potential of the young models who for so long have languished in the shadow of the supermodels: the autumn campaigns stars (from left to right) Abbey Lee Kershaw, Masha Novoselova and the slightly more established Lily Donaldson.

Individually, these newer girls have secured the odd campaign role, but their first group campaign is newsworthy. At first glance, the imagery appears odd and unfamiliar. And so it might, for Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin are not only capable of responding to fashion, they define it. What we can see here is the beginning of an innovative new language for the Gucci brand. On the left, Kershaw's twisted head and bended knee may look a little Uriah Heep, and Donaldson's "lost in the music" stance (far right) a touch melodramatic, but the feeling of romance and emotional extremity suits Giannini's hallucinatory, Russian folklore-inspired collection.

Verdict: the new girls on the block

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