Balmain spring/summer 2015: Rousteing presents fearless designs for powerful women

Balmain spring/summer 2015

Olivier Rousteing of Balmain is a designer who understands the power of a mega-watt star: "One of the most popular photos from Balmain's last collection didn't focus on any of my designs," he explained.

"It was a shot of Rihanna, seated next to me at the after party, and she looked amazing in her transparent top. Was I jealous? Of course not, I was inspired!"

That inspiration was worked into his spring/summer collection most obviously as he experimented with translucency to the point of transparency in places. There was more depth to it than that though, as Rousteing used this opportunity to muse on the modern appetite for uncensored, unrestricted materials that is so well catered to online.

There was a joyously retro sense to the collection, and its inspiration too - with Michael Jackson on the soundtrack and Janet Jackson just one of the fearless women Rousteing wanted to celebrate.

The body conscious silhouette married skin-tight bandage dresses and bandeau tops with sharp shoulders, on trousers and skirts waists were high, as were hemlines on brief mini skirts. Grid patterns carved up curve-hugging knitwear, held together a clear plastic skirt and were layered onto sheer fabrics to expose what lay beneath.

The brand is known for its evening wear, and there was certainly plenty on show that would come into its own under the intense flashbulbs of the red carpet cameras. There were plenty of those present too, as Kim Kardashian and Kanye West were front row watching Kendall Jenner walk in the show.

She was joined by Joan Smalls, Jourdan Dunn, Karlie Kloss and Rosie Huntington-Whitely who embody Rousteing's ideal of a powerful woman, in control of her own body and not afraid to show it.