Cavalli ushers in an age of innocence

Roberto Cavalli is known for excessive glamour and animal prints, but yesterday's show at Milan fashion week revealed a subtler side to the designer.

That isn't to say that the man who dressed the Spice Girls in gold leggings for their world tour had entirely jettisoned his trademark sex appeal. Instead, having shown a romantic, hippy-luxe collection last season, he continued on a more innocent, at times folkish, trail.

White dresses made from filmy chiffon decorated with scattered flowers felt light and romantic for autumn/winter, as did lemon yellow and blue tiered silk versions. A black dress with a plunging neckline adorned with sequinned flowers was saved from any brassiness by a drop-waisted 1950s skirt. Indeed, lower waists featured throughout, adding a fairly relaxed feel.

Wide floral borders on black silk dresses, wool coats and short jackets were reminiscent of Russian folk dress, a reference that has loomed large in Milan, while a long black silk dress with high collar and long sleeves had an unusually monastic feel – although a white top hat and gold pendant ensured the overall effect was suitably camp.

A touch of rock attitude came with a sharp tuxedo suit worn with spike-heeled shoes.

While Cavalli moderated his sexiness, Marni stuck to the wearable, but quirky look that has attracted a cult following since the label was established in 1994 by Consuelo Castiglioni.

Layering was key, with different lengths, textures and colours combining to achieve a measured eclecticism and playful take on proportion. Simple shapes meant that even a lemon yellow leather A-line skirt worn with a silver grey top and pink cape didn't look cluttered.

Dresses were loose as always, but lent definition by gathering at the front or thin belts, and they had acquired a new level of detailing.

Accessories are key in any Italian label, and clumpy, "jolie-laide" shoes and chunky necklaces in the form of sequinned and bakelite collars featured. Expect high street "homages".