Fashion: The names to look for on tomorrow's labels: The future belongs to them: Roger Tredre lists nine others to take notice of in 1993

Roger Tredre
Thursday 31 December 1992 00:02 GMT
Comments

Jean Colonna, 37: Unpretentious Frenchman who steers clear of the fashion fraternity and makes the lowest- priced clothes in Paris. Best known for his leather-look PVC. His jackets are unmistakable: the seams are on the outside.

Ann Demeulemeester, 33: Belgian designer who first showed in London in the mid-Eighties before moving to Paris. An intense perfectionist who concentrates on cut and proportion and professes indifference to seasonal fashion trends.

Martin Margiela, 35: Shy Belgian who shuns interviews and uses a blank white label. Worked with Gaultier before going solo, holding shows in the back streets of Paris. He describes his clothes as flea-market chic.

John Richmond, 32: British designer showing his clothes in Paris. His signature leather jackets are popular in the rock and club worlds, but more recently he has branched out into body-conscious tailoring and denim.

Veronique Leroy, 27: Parisian who worked for Azzedine Alaia and Martine Sitbon before going solo two years ago. Her spring collection, dedicated to the tooth-flossed heroines of Seventies American junk TV, includes stretch satin flared trouser suits and Lurex tank tops.

Helmut Lang, 36: Laid-back Austrian who hates too much detail in his clothes. He experiments constantly with materials, developing metallic sheens and wafer-thin transparent fabrics that have been much copied. He also designs menswear.

Koji Tatsuno, 28: London-based Japanese designer who has shown in Paris for four seasons. His signature fabric resembles ribbons woven together. The spring collection mixes Seventies themes with sci-fi fabrics and styling.

Orson Bodil: Dutch label founded in 1989 by Nannet van der Kleijn and Alexander van Slobbe. Renowned for unfussy tailoring and attention to detail in cut and proportion, fused with a shameless love of fabric from soft, silk wrapped skirts to silver-green brocade half- mast trousers.

Helen Storey, 33: Brit with a firm finger on the pulse of contemporary fashion. Sells second-hand clothes alongside her streetwise main collection, and also reworks her best-selling garments in leather and denim.

Additional reporting by Harriet Quick.

(Photograph omitted)

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in