London Collections Men: Sport shows how to strip men for action
After only a dozen shows at London Collections: Men on Sunday, a message was already beginning to emerge: namely, that the best suiting in London isn’t necessarily tailored.
The track, shell and swimsuit were all given ample workouts by the young names that have made Britain a new must-see on the global calendar. That sports focus has been bubbling for some seasons, but this first day saw it synthesised so successfully with innovative designs and luxury materials, it felt the hybrid was entirely new.
Of course, these clothes aren’t intended for actual Olympian escapades. Nevertheless, take tally of the number of men sporting trainers and trackies as day-wear and it is undeniable that, unlike so much high fashion, they reflect the way many real men really dress.
Astrid Andersen, a young Dane showing her third collection, uses some pretty outré fabrics: panné velvet, chantilly lace, silk chiffon in ombré shades from cyclamen through to satsuma.
But somehow they seem not only wearable but hyper-masculine.
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