Why retinol is the anti-ageing ingredient your skincare routine needs

Here’s everything you need to know

The beauty industry is awash with creams, gels and serums that claim to turn back the clock on your skin.

And, with a confusing list of fancy buzzwords to contend with – think anti-wrinkle, de-creasing, radiance and plumping – the anti-ageing category can be a minefield.

So, if your current skincare concerns include fine lines, wrinkles and enlarged pores, what exactly should you be looking for?

According to skincare experts, dermatologists and beauty editors everywhere, there’s only one super ingredient that really delivers in this arena – retinol.

An ingredient that dermatologists and beauty editors have been raving about for years, retinoids (the umbrella term for retinol products) are not only said to reverse the signs of ageing after daily use but can also act as a preventive measure.

To find out all there is to know, The Independent spoke to Dr Anil Budh-Raja, a leading dermatologist specialising in anti-ageing treatments, about the skincare industry’s go-to anti-ageing ingredient.

What is retinol and what does it do?

While the term might sound confusing, Budh-Raja states that retinol is essentially a form of vitamin A that is used in creams, serums and lotions.

Famed for its anti-ageing properties, retinol promotes skin renewal by exfoliating the outermost layer of the skin and stimulates collagen production.

“This has the effect of softening and improving fine lines and wrinkles, and improving skin texture, tone and tightness, thus resulting in a more youthful, rejuvenated complexion,” Budh-Raja explains.

The ingredient is also effective in treating pigmentation, whether that be from acne scars or sun damage, producing a more even skin tone; it will also help unclog pores.

What skin types is retinol suitable for?

According to Budh-Raja, retinol has come a long way over the years, and there are plenty of options available for those cautious of exfoliation. However, if you have underlying skin conditions such as eczema or rosacea, using a high strength retinol product could enhance inflammation.

That’s not to say you can’t use them though. The dermatologist advises those with sensitive skin to gradually introduce a product at a low concentration into your skincare routine and make sure to follow with SPF30 or higher.

What age should you start using retinol?

Retinol might be an anti-ageing ingredient, but Budh-Raja states that it is actually suitable for anyone over the age of 18.

This is because collagen production in the skin naturally starts to decline from our early twenties.

Younger people can still use retinol – after all, prevention is always better than cure – but they may not see quite the same effects as those with older skin, says the skin expert.

When and how often should you apply it?

As a rule, retinol creams or serums are best used at night as they can increase the skin’s sensitivity to sunlight.

Simply apply a pea-sized amount to the face three times a week and gently smooth until absorbed.

Budh-Raja also recommends adding an SPF to your morning routine to prevent any sensitivity and possible sun-induced pigmentation.