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Fashion designer Virgil Abloh has said he hopes to see “systemic change” in fashion in the near future, discussing how the industry responded to the Black Lives Matter movement.
Speaking to British Vogue , the founder of fashion label Off-White recalled how the fashion industry responded when footage from the killing of Ahmaud Arbery circulated on social media in May.
On 23 February, Mr Arbery, a black man, was fatally shot while jogging near Brunswick, Georgia, having been chased by two white men, which was filmed on camera. In July, it was reported that the men involved pleaded not guilty to the charges.
Recalling when the video of Mr Arbery’s death was being shared online, Mr Abloh said that he had a “hard time” continuing with his work, as the main focus of the fashion world at the time appeared to be the changes happening to the seasonal calendar.
“Just imagine how that looks to me from a wider lens. I was having a hard time being on calls about dates when the news – and the news in fashion – didn’t reflect Arbery’s death,” the designer said.
Explaining that he places great importance on showing “black talent, black people, and black people inside of my output” in his work, Mr Abloh addressed whether the fashion industry has “a race problem”.
“Does the fashion industry have a race problem? Well, it’s so systemic and deep that it can’t even look at itself when it represents itself,” he stated.
Having witnessed how companies professed their support for the Black Lives Matter movement following the death of George Floyd in May this year, Mr Abloh said that “nobody knows how to talk about race”.
Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UKShow all 79 1 /79Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Parliament Square, London, in memory of George Floyd who was killed on May 25 while in police custody in the US city of Minneapolis
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A girl wears a face mask during a Black Lives Matter rally in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People are seen by a mural of George Floyd who died in police custody in Minneapolis, Stevenson Square, Manchester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Manchester Piccadilly Gardens
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Children pose for their family in front of discarded placards fixed on a wall in Piccadilly Gardens after a Black Lives Matter demonstrations in Manchester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People shout slogans during a Black Lives Matter rally in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators in Leicester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A demonstrator holds up a placard during a Black Lives Matter protest in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A demonstrator gestures during a Black Lives Matter protest in Manchester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A mounted police officer raises their baton as police horses ride along Whitehall, past the entrance to Downing Street, in an attempt to disperse protestors gathered in central London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Bute Park, Cardiff
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally march on Vauxhall Bridge Road, London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters hold up signs as they march along a road during a peaceful Black Lives Matter march in Aylesbury
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People climbing on top of the Queen Victoria Statue as they take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Manchester Piccadilly Gardens
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Children pose for a photo during a Black Lives Matter protest at Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators hold placards as they attend a protest march to the US Embassy in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters demonstrate near the the US Embassy in Nine Elms in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters in Whitehall following a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators wearing protective face masks and face coverings hold placards during a Black Lives Matter protest in Leicester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A demonstrator is seen during a Black Lives Matter protest in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators are seen as police officers look on during a Black Lives Matter protest near Downing street in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators are seen wth police liaison officers during a Black Lives Matter protest in Luton
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A protest at Parliament Square in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A demonstrator in Leicester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators wearing protective face masks and face coverings hold placards during a Black Lives Matter protest in Leicester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators block traffic outside Victoria Station
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Custom House Square, Belfast
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Police on horseback in Whitehall following a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Parliament Square, London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters hold placards as they attend a demonstration in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators throw flares above a police line during a Black Lives Matter march in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People climbing on top of the Queen Victoria Statue as they take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Manchester Piccadilly Gardens
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators raise their hands facing police officers after scuffles during a Black Lives Matter march in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People are seen placing placards on a fence in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A demonstrator is seen with a protective face mask during a Black Lives Matter protest in Watford
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A sign alternatively naming Wilson Street 'Rosa Parks Street' in Glasgow. Activists have put up names of black people and civil rights activists throughout history alongside street names around the Scottish centre as part of the ongoing worldwide demonstrations following the death of George Floyd
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Boxer Anthony Joshua is seen with demonstrators during a Black Lives Matter protest in Watford
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators gather outside Downing Street
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators kneel facing police officers after scuffles during a Black Lives Matter march in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators lay on the pavement during a Black Lives Matter rally at Trafalgar Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A protester stands on bus stop and raises their hand during a Black Lives Matter protest at Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters holding placards gather in Manchester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A man gestures during a Black Lives Matter march in in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Girls hold placards in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A demonstrator in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A demonstrator wearing a protective face mask during a Black Lives Matter protest in Leicester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A protest placard is affixed to the plinth of a statue of the Duke of Wellington on the second day of Black Lives Matter demonstrations in Piccadilly Gardens
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Deansgate, Manchester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators stage a Black Lives Matter Protest in Leicester city centre
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A demonstrator points towards a mounted police officer laying in the road after being unseated from their horse, during a demonstration on Whitehall, near the entrance to Downing Street
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A 'Black Lives Matter' (BLM) protest at Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Manchester Piccadilly Gardens
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters in Whitehall following a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Parliament Square, London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters in Whitehall following a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protests at Parliament Square in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A demonstrator holds a placard during a Black Lives Matter protest in Watford
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators hold placards during a Black Lives Matter protest in Watford
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters hold placards as they march through central London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters kneel as they hold placards during a demonstration in Manchester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A mother and son hold up a sign during a peaceful Black Lives Matter march in Aylesbury
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A protest march in Manchester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Parliament Square, London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators are seen standing on top of a bus stop wearing protective face masks and face coverings as the Black Lives Matter protesters march to the Home Office in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Manchester Piccadilly Gardens
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators during a Black Lives Matter protest in Manchester are seen by a mural of George Floyd
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Parliament Square, London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A demonstrator is seen wearing a protective face mask as the Black Lives Matter protesters march to the Home Office in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protest in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Demonstrators with a flare are seen during a Black Lives Matter protest near Downing street in London
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Bute Park, Cardiff
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters hold up signs during a peaceful Black Lives Matter march in Aylesbury
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A protester raises his arm during a second day of Black Lives Matter demonstrations in Piccadilly Gardens
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Bute Park, Cardiff
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Placards are seen during a Black Lives Matter protest in Parliament Square
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK People take part in a Black Lives Matter protest rally in Manchester Piccadilly Gardens
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters holding placards gather at the Queen Victoria monument for a second day of Black Lives Matter demonstrations in Piccadilly Gardens
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK Protesters hold placards as they attend a demonstration in Manchester
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Black Lives Matter protesters gather across the UK A woman kneels during a Black Lives Matter rally in London
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“It’s so deep in our hearts, so full of different experiences,” he said.
“Or, in most cases, people don’t even know what it could be to feel like you’ve been oppressed. So can we allow people to say the wrong thing, if they do?”
The designer affirmed that he wants “to see systemic change, not reactionary change” in future, expressing his wish that brands don’t just show their support for the Black Lives Matter movement out of a desire for publicity.
“Everyone’s on a race to get back to normal, to a clean image. But this is the critical moment to actually understand,” he said.
“I hope for conversations that are long lasting. But I’m an optimist. I believe the world will be a better place – and it’s great that everyone’s hearts and minds are open. It’s broadened the message about how change needs to happen.”
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