Eleonora Galasso, Do As the Romans Do: La Dolce Vita in a Cookbook, book review

Continuing our Cookbook Confidential series, Julia Platt Leonard reviews Eleonora Galasso's latest Italian masterpiece

Roman-style meringue with orange sauce

He’s called a ‘coatto’ and if you’ve ever been to Rome you’ve probably seen him. He hangs around at the local bar or outside in the square, wearing flashy clothes, holding court and ‘talking’ with his hands. Sure he’s full of bravado but Eleonora Galasso, food writer and author of As the Romans Do, says he’s got a good heart and a fierce sense of loyalty – two qualities I’d say she has in spades.

As the Romans Do is an unbridled romp through Rome with Eleonora translating the culinary landscape along the way. She’s a passionate tour guide and you’re left breathless and decidedly hungry, ready for something sustaining – perhaps her Roman-style ravioli with broccoli, anchovies, sun-dried tomato & ricotta.

To structure your journey into La Dolce Vita, Eleonora divides the book into sections starting with ‘Breakfast Ritual Al Bar’ where she talks caffè (never order a cappuccino after breakfast, please!) and fortifies us with recipes such as Maritozzi – sticky buns laced with raisins, pinenuts and orange – and Biscottini da inzuppo – dunking biscuits that remind her of her childhood and her grandmother’s pantry (‘that exuberant temple of gluttony’).

She shares classic recipes as well as ‘reinvented’ dishes that are inspired by her family, friends or most importantly Rome itself. For at its heart, As the Romans Do is about the ‘colourful clamour’ of Rome with dishes like Budini di riso – Rice pudding tartlets – that Eleonora describes as ‘…like the Romans: a bit hard on the outside, but with a tremendous amount of heart.’

Forbidden from entering her great-grandmother’s kitchen at an early age (testing pasta was the most she was allowed) Eleonora persevered and went on to train at the Ateneo Italiano della Cucina in Rome and complete a Master’s degree in gastronomy and food culture. Today, she divides her time between Rome and Paris but I’m in no doubt where her heart is.

It’s possible – but not probable – to cook your way through As the Romans Do and not smile because Eleonora’s love for Rome is infectious. I found myself googling airfares to Rome and wondering if there might be room on the back of her Vespa for me. Best not…I’ll stay at the local bar and watch the ‘coatto’ hold court and wonder what Eleonora will make us for dinner.