Falmouth: A charming food haven by the sea

This gorgeous place on the Cornish coast is perfect for a staycation, especially if you like to chomp as you go – just like Pac-Man

The picturesque town is known for its stunning harbour – and its oysters

Celebrated for its stunning harbour, Falmouth is making a splash as a key food destination on Cornwall’s culinary map.

The seaside town is packed with restaurants, cafes and pubs with breathtaking harbour views and delicious cuisine for seafood lovers and vegetarians alike.

Sunlight sparkled across the marina as we arrived at The Greenbank, a popular four-star hotel that sits right on the edge of the harbour, away from the busyness of the high street.

On the outside the hotel maintains a distinct maritime aesthetic but inside, its rooms are stylish with all the modern touches and stunning harbour views to boot.

It’s also the home of the Water’s Edge restaurant, with an award-winning menu that attracts locals and tourists alike.

The restaurant offers relaxed fine-dining, with a diverse meal selection, featuring fresh seafood and fish landed in Cornwall, as well as flavourful vegetarian options with seasonal vegetables and fruits grown right on the Greenbank’s doorstep.

Executive chef Nick Hodges brings together a fusion-focused menu, with dishes like the baked flaky hake fillet with saffron, lemon and crab risotto and for vegetarians, the hearty homity pie with baby carrots, tenderstem brocolli and a delicious roasted onion puree.

For dessert, the decadent dark chocolate tart with homemade banana ice cream, caramelised bananas and sea salt caramel is the perfect indulgence.

Oliver’s is another popular restaurant in the seaside town, with seasonal menus serving locally sourced and foraged food.

The Working Boat, which can be found below the Greenbank is housed in a stunning location where indulging in a pint or cocktail has been time-honoured tradition: the site has housed a number of pubs for more than 300 years.

Onto the bustling high street

Just a short stroll away from the harbour, Falmouth’s bustling high street is packed with restaurants and charming cafes.

Head over to Dolly’s Tea Room and Wine Bar for an afternoon tea or evening tipple.

Dolly’s is a must-visit, serving up afternoon tea with homemade scones and Cornish clotted cream, as well as cocktail “teas” in kitsch teapots perfect for sharing.

Indulge in a cocktail tea party at Dolly’s, served up in a fun teapot for two

Like many pubs and cafes in Falmouth, Dolly’s is 100 per cent pup-friendly, so bring your pets along. Hebe, the locally famous pearl-wearing yellow labrador, is a permanent fixture in the cafe and will likely be the first to greet you at the door.

The Falmouth Oyster Festival takes place 12-15 October, celebrating the start of the oyster dredging season and, of course, the native fal oyster.

If you plan on going ahead or after the festival, popular oysters spots in the area include The Wheel House and The Shack.

If it’s a Cornish pasty you’ve got your heart set on, you’ll want to give the Dog and Smuggler Tuck Shop a go. The small shop offers a wide selection of the hearty pastries, with plenty of vegetarian and vegan options, from spinach and ricotta to spiced chick pea.

Blue Flag beach getaway

A roughly 25-minute walk from the high street will take you to Gyllyngvase beach, one of the most famous in Cornwall. Gyllyngvase is one of eight beaches in Cornwall to receive the Blue Flag 2017 award, which recognises that the beach is clean, well-managed and has high-quality water.

The beach, along with Swanpool Beach, a bit further from the town centre, is popular with families and often packed during the summer months.

Dog-lovers should be aware that Gyllyngvase institutes a seasonal ban on pets. Dogs are welcome on the beach except for between Easter Sunday and 30 September.

One of the best features of the beach is the cafe that’s built over its sands. Gylly Beach Cafe offers breathtaking views of the water, with friendly service and a delectably diverse menu.

Open all day, the cafe’s motto is “good food takes a little longer” – and when it comes to Gylly Beach, it’s true.

The roasted mackerel and squid burger is well worth waiting for, with its unique black bun coloured with squid ink.

Gyllyngvase beach is a popular Blue Flag-certified tourist destination

​If you’re looking for the perfect sunset meal, The Harbour View restaurant lives up to its name with a stunning vista.

Its menu is seafood-centric, with Harbour View fish cakes, calarami and steamed mussels in a white wine and garlic cream sauce as starters and mains like pan-fried sea bass with asparagus, crushed lemon and herb potatoes, thai monkfish and prawn curry and of course, beer-battered fish and chips with tartare sauce, pea puree and hand-cut chips, to name a few.

For us, it was what came after the meal that stole the show – the must-try rich chocolate panna cotta dessert with Baileys cream and ginger crumble.

After dinner, you won’t want to miss checking out The Chintz Symposium for drinks – and if you’re lucky live local entertainment.

Partly inspired by Alice in Wonderland the bar itself is one-of-a-kind with a lively atmosphere and quirky decor from masks collected from around the world to a ceiling-bound doll collection and a swinging secret bookshelf door.

The Chintz is owned by three friends, two of which are brothers – and dedicated to their father, “the late, great David Bruce” who was nicknamed “the Chintz” for his love of bright patterns and was the inspiration for the name and the decor of the popular bar.

Local bands play at The Chintz on a regular basis playing everything from Cornish folk music to funk.

Less surfing, more supping

While the waters in Falmouth are a bit too calm for surfers, there is a wide range of activities for those in search of adventure.

Sunset sup yoga is the perfect way to close out a busy day

Gylly Adventures offers a selection of fun water activities like paddle-boarding, coasteering and even sunset sup yoga on the water – a true test of balance.

I enjoyed a lesson in stand-up paddle boarding with company co-owner Andy, who took me out on a fun – and fascinating – tour of the harbour, pointing out historic sites and popular attractions on the world’s third deepest natural harbour.

And luckily, the water isn’t the only thing with depth; there’s more to Falmouth than meets the eye, with some of the best restaurants and cafes that food destination Cornwall has to offer.

It might be a relatively small town, but Falmouth’s cuisine – and the friendly service – is world-class.

Essentials:

How to get there:

Flying is the fastest way to get to Cornwall, but the nearest airport is in Newquay. From there, you can take the train or bus. If you are in a hurry, you can also take a taxi for around £50-£70.

Alternatively, you can get to Falmouth by train or bus only.

Where to stay:

If you want to stay close to the harbour and high street, you will want to stay at The Greenbank Hotel. The hotel boasts stunning and up-to-date room with picturesque seaside views. It also has its own restaurant, The Water’s Edge, a courtyard, bar and spa services. (greenbank-hotel.co.uk)

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If you don’t want to stray too far from the beach, The Royal Duchy Hotel is set on stunning landscaped grounds facing the sea. It includes a terrace lounge serving light bites, a champagne bar and an indoor pool and sauna, as well as spa services. (royalduchy.co.uk)

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If you’re after a more homey stay, with all the modern touches, Highcliffe Bed and Breakfast is an ideal destination. Its rooms are filled with character and offer views of the harbour, town and Pendennis Castle. (highcliffefalmouth.com)

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