Wines of the week: 7 affordable clarets

Bordeaux wines can be a motley cru, from very ordinary indeed to exceptional (and exceptionally expensive). But don't be put off: Terry Kirby is on hand with seven affordable clarets

To non-expert consumers – and even to some wine buffs – the classification of wines in the Bordeaux area, probably the greatest and most celebrated wine region in the world, can be baffling and the reading of labels a test of arcane knowledge, with all the First and Second growths, Left Bank and Right Bank, Premier Grand Cru’s. Not to mention the difference between various vintages, whether to drink now or lay down for the future, and so on.

And, yet, we have historic connections and a special affinity with Bordeaux. But while many know that claret is simply a generic term for red wine from the whole region, that “Grand Cru” designates a wine of very decent quality and probably high price and can recognise some the great names – Mouton Rothschild Haut-Brion etc – some are deceived by the phrase “Grand Vin De Bordeaux”, not an officially recognised term at all and can be applied to very ordinary wines, as well as decent ones.

No wonder many consumers retreat in confusion, simply opting for something that says “merlot” or “cabernet sauvignon” in big letters on the label, which is likely to come from anywhere but France. Even the Appellation Contrôlée designation, a sign of quality elsewhere in France, is not so reliable in Bordeaux.

There is no space here to explore all the complexities, but if readers are keen to expand their knowledge or buy en primeur wines to lay down in your cellar for years – a less popular tradition than it used to be – then take advice from a traditional, well established wine merchant, such as Berry Brothers and Rudd. Or there may be one in your local High Street.

So where do you find affordable, reliable red Bordeaux for everyday drinking? The good news is that there has been a rise in such wines as the trade has responded to consumer demand for claret to drink now, rather than sit on for years. And, to avoid repetition, all these wines below are fine with red meats, particularly steak, as well as hard cheeses.

While they have long served the top end of the market, Berry Bros have implicitly recognised that consumers also want what they rather self-deprecatingly term Good Ordinary Claret (£9.95 bbr.com) a cabernet sauvignon blend of glorious drinkability, medium bodied, juicy and succulent, with flavours of red and dark fruits and notes of wood and tar. And the label is definitely, well, ordinary.

A similar, low key approach is taken by Shrewsbury-based Tanners, established in 1842, who just call their, highly recommended, old-vine merlot dominated version Claret (£8.95 tanners-wines.co.uk). Both of these wines represent terrific value for money.

Moving slightly up the price scale, Haynes Hanson & Clark, have a range of excellent, modestly priced clarets, such as the Chateau Grand Moulin Macquin 2015 (£15.40 hhandc.co.uk) from the area of Montagne St-Emilion, one of the so-called satellites of the famous Grand Cru town of St Emilion, which, naturally, trade on the name and sometimes offer much better value. A lovely understated balance between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; a respectable dinner party claret. As well as these satellites, another potentially confusing factor is other areas which go under the Cotes Du Bordeaux or Cotes de Bourg designations. The village of Castillon on the banks of the River Dordogne is one such area and Haynes have the organically produced Chateau Beynat 2015 (£13.10 hhandc.co.uk) where the rich, dark, tarry flavours of merlot are lifted by fragrant cabernet franc.

On the high street, Marks & Spencer have two excellent affordable clarets: The Grand Plessis Medoc Grande Reserve 2015 (£10.00 Marks & Spencer) where the typical Merlot Cab-Sauv blend is enlivened by both carmenere and petit verdot to create a really juicy and approachable bottle. Since it is also labelled Grand Vin De Bordeaux, it must almost break the record for using Grand on a label, without it meaning very much. Also try another GVDB Medoc wine, the Chateau Blaignan 2014 (£10.88 Marks & Spencer) which, confusingly, is also labelled Cru Bourgeois, an official designation of quality but below Grand Cru status.

Meanwhile, also from the Medoc, Waitrose have the Chateau Tour de Gilet 2015, (£9.99 Waitrose) another rich, merlot dominated blend and labelled Bordeaux Superior, which is a step above Bordeaux AC, denoting wines of single parcels which have had minimum ageing. I do so hope you have been taking notes... and if not, the one thing to remember is that it is the wine inside that counts, not the label, however Grand.