Cellar notes #31: War in cyberspace

It's spittoons at dawn as two of the world's heavyweight palates spit at each other across the Atlantic.

It's spittoons at dawn as two of the world's heavyweight palates spit at each other across the Atlantic. Our own Jancis Robinson MW has panned Château Pavie 2003 with a derisory 12 out of 20. From the US, The Wine Advocate's Robert Parker has responded with a vituperative claim that her known dislike of Gérard Perse's wines caused her to single the wine out for criticism.

The Saint-Emilion in question typifies the contradictory opinions in this extraordinary vintage. As a big, rich, show-off red, Pavie is made in a controversial style that's likely to be enjoyed by those who like richly concentrated wines, but disliked by partisans of the more traditional Saint-Emilion style.

Does it matter if, quality aside, the wine is not recognisable as claret? The traditionalists say when you buy an expensive bottle of wine, you should have a good idea of what style to expect. Parker says that Perse is only adopting time-honoured Burgundy (sic) winemaking techniques in an effort to maximise terroir and vintage character. Either way, legitimate expressions of opinion are valid, but it's plain arrogant of Parker to suggest that his is the only view in town.

Maybe he's lashed out because he feels taunted by critics over his known preference for the alcoholic, superconcentrated style. Where the ex-attorney is skating on thin ice is in impugning Jancis Robinson's honesty. Still, this storm in a wine glass will add fuel to the ongoing debate over the 2003 vintage, not to mention their two websites.

Visit www.jancisrobinson.com and www.erobertparker.com