Edwin Booth has as firm a commitment to wine producers as to customers

The eponymous family chain has rightly been called "the respectable face of British supermarkets"

With 30 branches spread across Cumbria, Cheshire, Lancashire and Yorkshire, Edwin Booth's eponymous family chain has rightly been called "the respectable face of British supermarkets" for having as firm a commitment to producers as to customers. The small-is-beautiful link between its Holme Farm venison, Johnson and Swarbrick poultry and Mrs Kirkham Lancashire cheese extends to the many family growers that populate its wine range.

Working with smaller growers "resonates with our values and enables me to access smaller and unique parcels of wine", says Booths' wine buyer Victoria di Muccio. It seems a while since Booths has ventured south to show a selection from its 800-strong wine range, but the stall it set out at the Saatchi Gallery before Christmas made me hanker for a Booths down south, to put the frighteners on The Big Four.

A well-sourced own-label range includes a citrus-crisp 2014 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc, £7.39; a raspberry-fruity 2014 Côtes du Rhône, £6.99; an oak, vanilla 2005 Rioja Reserva and sweet-and-sour cherryish 2012 Chianti Classico. Both Booths' umami-Marmitey Fino Sherry, £6.95, half-bottle, and its toasty, briochey 2006 Vintage Champagne, £33.99, punch above their weight.

Quality European whites include the rich and stylish 2010 Domaine du Vieux Château Chablis Viellies Vignes, £15.79; the floral, peachy 2014 Domaine de Vedilhan Serica Viognier, £9.99; a fragrant, intense and nuttily dry 2014 Château Dereszla Dry Tokaji and stonefruit-intense 2012 Audacia Godello, £15.49. From New Zealand comes a peach-and-pear fresh 2014 The Crossings Pinot Gris and the complex Meursault-like 2012 Kumeu River Chardonnay, £18.99.

European reds kick off with a delicate 2013 Cave Saint-Verny Puy de Dôme Pinot Noir, £8.99; a terrific blackcurranty 2014 Mas Barrau Cabernet Franc, £7.89; and youthfully spicy 2014 Domaine St.Roch Vacqueyras, £10.99; along with a complex 2011 Vallet Frères Gevrey Chambertin Clos de la Justice, £35.99. From the New World, unusual choices include Tasmania's raspberryish 2014 Tamar Ridge Devil's Corner Pinot Noir, £13.99, and Australia's Barolo-like 2013 Trentham Estate Nebbiolo, £11.99.