Michelin has snubbed London for the fourth year in a row – has the capital lost its grip on the foodie scene?

As crippling rent prices and an exodus of talent shake up the industry, good, affordable dining in our capital could be a thing of the past. After Michelin awarded only two of its 20 new Bib Gourmands to the city, Rosie Conroy looks to the winners – and losers – to find out what the future holds for cheap eats

Les 2 Garcons in Crouch End was one of only two restaurants to earn a Bib Gourmand this year (Les 2 Garcons)

Notoriously covert, there’s something mischievous about the way Michelin operates. At the end of January, the guide made an announcement that it had awarded 20 new restaurants with Bib Gourmands – a ranking that recognises good food at moderate prices.

Wales and Scotland received nominations for the Touring Club and Tipo respectively. Ireland received five, Northern Ireland one (Belfast’s Home regained its status) and 10 more were awarded to restaurants in Lewes, Manchester, Bury St Edmunds, Hove, Charlbury, Bristol, Old Windsor, Falmouth, Hoveringham and Fordham.

Of the 20 accolades handed out, just two were in London – Empire Empire, a disco-themed Indian restaurant in Notting Hill, and Les 2 Garcons, a French bistro in Crouch End. London still holds the most (35), but with half the number of Bibs awarded this year compared to last, down from seven in 2021, and with places like Bristol, Brighton and Manchester on the up, the downward trend for the capital has been branded a snub.