Simon Hopkinson: A farewell... with aubergines

After eight and a half years as 'The Independent' chef, Simon Hopkinson presents his final, typically inspired set of recipes, for the beautiful and versatile aubergine

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Salad of grilled aubergines with garlic cream dressing and basil

Nasu dengaku

Stuffed aubergines

Mark Hix of 'The Ivy': Meet the Independent's new chef

This week's article is to be my last for this highly respected Independent organ. I truthfully feel that although I do often have a great deal to say, of late I have found it increasingly difficult to find the right way to say it. It also occurs to me that I had begun to drift from my initial brief further into discontent – yes, this has been noted – rather than a celebration of good things, passionately discussed (I hope that, above all things, there was always a little passion). And, finally, the mild guilt of repetition – though that is something that may have affected me more than you.

It will have been nearly eight and a half years since Emily Green (at the time, the newspaper's equally highly respected restaurant critic) suggested to this shyly retiring cook that he might just entertain the idea of composing a column or two for the Saturday page, as the most reasonable alternative to composing salads in the Bibendum kitchen. "Mr Hopkinson Cooks his Goose'' ran that very first headline, together with a serviceable photograph (are they ever anything but, in the eyes of the subject?) and my early attempts at describing, in a journalistic medium, all that I knew about a roast goose stuffed with mashed potato – although anyone with the mildest leanings, gastronomy-wise, knows full well that it was the unique, mad, lovely and late Peter Langan who first alerted us to such a feast, but I think – I sincerely hope – that I said so at the time.

Over the years I have been assisted along the way by the essential, initial encouragement of Hilly Janes, soon to be followed by the hugely inspirational, guiding and forthright Allan Jenkins. Then it was to be Lisa Markwell's sensitive and reassuring voice, together with Andrew Tuck's spirited enthusiasm for the relationship between cook and snapper on the page. The snapper, of course, being the semi-Florentined Jason Lowe, without whom my scribble would have been as a bird without wings, a vampire bat bereft of teeth or, furthermore, a shark's fin without its soup. I am forever indebted, to thee. And, of course, to Emily Green, she who set me up good and proper in the first place. Thank you, from the bottom of my heart. And last but not least to you, dear readers, for bothering to read in the first place and, from time to time, writing back so thoughtfully (scallop wittering excepted, naturally). Bless you.

Here, finally, are some aubergine recipes. Possibly my favourite vegetable in every sense: good shape, lovely colour, countless varieties, great versatility, year-round availability, keeps very well, nice and shiny to look at and it also feels rather gorgeous too – which is something to bear in mind when cooking is done ... Go on, fondle an aubergine. Cheerio, for now.