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The Truffler: Punt e Mes; lavender and honey ice cream; maple essence; goat curry

Saturday 22 February 2003 01:00 GMT
Comments

I used to be able to get that marvellous north Italian aperitivo Punt e Mes from The Wine Society but they have dropped it from their catalogue. Oddbins used to get it but now can't. No other wine merchant or supermarket locally has ever stocked it. Do you know why it seems to have disappeared? And can you suggest someone who will supply it, probably by post?
The Revd Canon Tim Russ, Plymouth

If only you'd conform to type and stick to sherry, vicar. Punt e Mes is rather out of fashion, and apparently a taste for it rather dates you, though it sounds ready for a retro comeback. You'll find it in Edinburgh at Valvona & Crolla (0131 5566066) for £16.40. Yes, I know that's another country, but people do live there and might be interested. In London my local deli, Saponara at 23 Prebend Street, London N1 (020-7226 2771) has it at £10 a bottle. And Plymouth? Well, I haven't been able to locate it there. However, across the border into Cornwall, Wadebridge Wines, Eddystone Road, Wadebridge (01208 812692) stocks it, along with 1,000 other wines and Nigerian Guinness, and if Del Monico, 23 South Street, St Austell (01726 71412) doesn't have it in stock they can get hold of it within hours.

At an open day at the Chelsea Physic Garden I had the most delicious lavender and honey ice cream. I can't remember who made it but would love to have it again.
Fiona Reeves, London

That would have been the Helsett Farm ice-cream van that had driven up from Cornwall. But you won't have to wait until this summer's open day to try it again. Selfridges sells Helsett Farm's fabulous ice creams all year round, so does the Pure Meat Co in Kentish Town, London. Helsett Farm (01840 261207) is also a regular at Henrietta Green's Food Lovers' Fairs at Covent Garden Market in London (next one 14 March) and at venues around the country (www.foodloversbritain.com). Now the farm has converted to organic, their ice creams could soon be available in organic stores such as Fresh & Wild. Other flavours include Bramley apple and cinnamon, and Agen prunes and Armagnac. If you want to make your own, lavender and honey is one of many easy and appealing recipes in Ice Cream by Shona Crawford Poole. published by Conran.

Several of my British friends say that my maple ice cream is, quite simply, the best ice cream – if not the best dessert – they've ever had. But I'm fast running out of maple essence, and I've been unable to replace it even on visits to America. Before I lose all my expat credibility on the ice cream front, can you direct me to a supplier?
Eric Van Tassel, Folwmere, Cambs

Is this the only secret ingredient in the ice cream you describe so modestly? Helsett Farm (see above), who also make maple ice cream, say they use syrup not essence, but I have found the latter for you. At the Rosslyn Deli on Haverstock Hill, Hampstead in London (020-7794 8210) they are quite accustomed to Americans begging them for home comforts. They have some hard-to-come-by maple essence (it isn't artificial, though it also contains grain alcohol and vegetable glycerine) they brought over from the States. They will put aside and post to you a 59ml bottle. It's £3.75 plus postage and should help you keep your reputation.

I am keen to make a West Indian-style goat curry and want to know where I might find goat meat. I don't want to have to go to a halal butcher or trek off to Finsbury Park or Brixton, but central London suits.
Jeff Reiner, Tunbridge Wells

Just too late ... goat milk cheesemakers Medown Cedaridge Dairy sold kid meat at London farmers' markets until their move this month from Kent to Wales. However, they are selling their goat meat mail order (01634 297097), from £5 a kilo for stewing meat, to £10 a kilo for chops. From the end of March they'll be back at Borough Market, London SE1 on Saturdays definitely and Fridays probably. At your nearest farmers' market, Tunbridge Wells, next on 8 March, Osney Lodge Farm's stall is selling goat meat from £5.50 for diced, to £9.50 for chops, supplied by a neighbouring stallholder who sells its goats' milk cheeses. This meat is also sold mail order (01342 892216/ www.britmeat.com).

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