The Wine Column: When the affair goes sour

When an apparently satisfying affair goes pear-shaped, we all know how painful it is for the one who has been chucked. But when a profitable relationship that has got into bad habits comes to an end, the dumpee can benefit. In this case that means Bordeaux. For, after 20 years of mutual admiration and enrichment, Bordeaux and its wine-writing saviour, Robert Parker, have temporarily gone their separate ways.

As the tastings of the 2002 vintage wines got underway this month, Parker, ostensibly for reasons of security and not as a stand against "Freedom" wines, snubbed Bordeaux.

His absence is significant. The tastings at this time of year offer a first bite of the Bordeaux cherry for the world's wine press, of which Parker is by far the most influential. Since Parker first praised the 1982 vintage, the top 100 or so Bordeaux châteaux have each year hung breathlessly on the great man's verdict before releasing prices early. The fine 2000 vintage was a case in point, with the most sought-after châteaux virtually charging at will thanks to Parker's upbeat assessment.

Already this year, one far-sighted Bordeaux merchant, Jean-Pierre Moueix, has announced that it's too early to show his wines. In a market still saturated with unsold 2001s, there will be no rush to buy the 2002 vintage. With so many profitable vintages under their belts, Bordeaux châteaux that normally play the pre-release, or en primeur, game can afford to wait. And, if the consensus is that April is too early to show the wines, the shock of Parker's apparent snub may do consumers a favour by delaying tastings until the young wines are ready.

Thanks, or no thanks in Bordeaux's view, to the spread of the good value cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes throughout the New World, UK consumers are no longer as dependent on Bordeaux as we once were. By a curious but perhaps ill-timed coincidence, Bordeaux has just launched a marketing push to counter the international competition and target 25-45 years olds, who don't appear to have the same respect for Bordeaux as their elders.

The campaign's message is that the world's most famous wine region offers affordable quality and finesse. By this, it means both individual châteaux and generic brands in the £5-£15 price bracket. Can Bordeaux play catch-up with the New World by coming up with modern brands that can add another string to the château bow? Easier said than done. Dourthe is the most successful player in this market, with its creditable, blackcurranty 2000 Dourthe Numéro 1 at £6.99 from Oddbins.

At château level, there are plenty of excellent, mid-priced Bordeaux from young vintages between 1998 and 2000 like the stylish, modern 1998 Château Haut Lariveau, Fronsac, £10.95-£15.95, Berry Bros & Rudd (020-7396 9600), the immensely vivid and juicy Château Marsau, Côtes de Francs, £13.25, The Wine Society (available to members, 01438 740222) or the well-crafted St-Emilion, 2000 Château Petit Corbin-Despagne, £10.60, bottle/case, Goedhuis & Co (020-7793 7900). The 2000 itself presents an excellent opportunity to replenish the cellar. For great, affordable claret, keep an eye out for Château Phélan Ségur, de Pez, Clarke, La Gurgue and Cambon La Pelouse (the classy 1999 is at Waitrose, £11.99). These are the sort of wines that could give Bordeaux a good name.