Mr Hanbury’s: Inn with the locals

The latest branch of privately owned, charmingly executed boutique hotel brand Artist Residence turns the local area into its very own larder

Penguins at the Oxfordshire pub’s entrance herald the eccentric delights awaiting inside (Emma Henderson)

As the trend for rooms with a restaurant grows, driving to the middle of nowhere to spend your evening wining and dining and then dragging your heavy self up to bed to sleep it off is just about as appealing as it gets. And what’s not to love? It’s like being young when you live at home: your parents cook for you and you schlep upstairs and fall into a catatonic slumber. You don’t have to worry about not being able to enjoy a few drinks if you’re the designated driver, or missing the last train home.

And none is quite so quaint as Mr Hanbury’s Pub, the Oxford branch of the Artist Residence boutique hotel brand – launched in 2006 by entrepreneurs Justin and Charlotte Salisbury, the mini-chain has outposts in Brighton, Cornwall and London. But what’s important is that it’s not just that the food, the restaurant and five-bedrooms interiors are seriously something to fuss over.

At the core is the understated look. It may look effortless but is has been very carefully chosen. Upcycled furniture and reclaimed wood mixed with loud poppy artwork, penguin statues that proudly greet you either side of the front door entrance, bold wallpaper, well-loved rugs and bold velvets give it a relaxed yet sophisticated atmosphere.

At the 16th-century Oxfordshire place, it’s modern country chic – “a traditional inn with an eccentric twist” as the website puts it. While the restaurant’s interior is made up of velour dusky pink bench seating, dark wooden furniture and bookshelves are dotted with vintage books and succulents, with a bar at one end. It’s down to earth, quirky and mostly one of a kind – with little hints of luxury dotted throughout from Andrew Martin print cushions to Bramley toiletries. The look has actually been such a hit that it’s prompted the set-up of design studio Salisbury & Co, with a shop on Lots Road in Chelsea – something of a dream location for interior designers.

Old-school charm: the restaurant’s dusky pink sofa seating contrasts with the dark blue walls

Each of Artist Residence place, confusingly, has its own name. So when you drive up, don’t expect to see signs for the Artist Residence (but the brand-new perfect thatch, devoid of any age-telling moss, will surely be a giveaway). And this one is Mr Hanbury’s Mason Arms, named after a fictional character. But previously owned by Gerry Stonhill, who filled the cellar with expensive wines, was the first proprietor in the country to be unlucky enough to be fined after the smoking ban was enforced in 2013. It was favoured by the likes of Raymond Blanc and Pierre White until it closed in 2013.

A sprinkle of pepper: the South Leigh lamb and courgette is beaut

But now it’s very quickly become a place for locals to eat and drink – a centre of the South Leigh village. And nothing could be a better indicator of its worth than for a new establishment to impress locals. And it’s not just the customers who live nearby. The menu is designed to use as much from the surrounding area and homegrown produce as possible. Herbs are grown in the raised bed garden just beyond the pub seating, lamb will be from the next field, and beer from breweries down the road – all within around 30 miles, accounting for its rural location.

It’s the hard work of chef Leon Smith, who is the protégé of Josh Eggleton from Michelin-starred Pony & Trap in Somerset, and a handful of places in Bristol. And Smith is keen on foraging too, from mushrooms to flowers and herbs. He’s bringing innovative cooking styles matched with exciting flavours to a seasonal and pleasantly concise menu.

‘What did I do last night?’: neon sign in the restaurant’s bar

The mackerel starter (£9) is pickled and finished with a blowtorch and served with a lightly whipped goat’s cheese, heritage beetroot and cucumber and topped with dill. It’s fresh light and flavoursome fish. The Eynsham pigeon (£9.50) has only kissed the heat for browned-off edges, which gives it a wonderfully pink interior and is served in a sweet port jelly with walnuts and gorgeous caramelised chicory – it’s indulgent but not heavy.

For the mains, the South Leigh lamb (£25) is the dish of the menu thanks to its courgette flower bhajis – which are as good as they sound – lightly spiced and crisp. The meat is tender and sits on a pea puree, surrounded by charred purple artichokes and roasted shallots. Easily one of the best meals I’ve had this year. While the venison (£25), which comes from nearby Eynsham, is served two ways – as a traditional cut and as a sausage roll, which might not sound appetising – but it is, along with salt-baked celeriac and rainbow chard.

As much as possible is cooked on a robata – a Japanese flame grill – which needs serious attention and skill to master.

Inside in the pub it’s a mix of flagstone flooring and heavy, old wooden seating

The food is certainly memorable, made more so by the insistent use of using all things local and homegrown. It’s a sustainable and affordable country retreat. Next in line for the AR treatment is Bristol’s city centre.

Service ***
Ambience ****
Value ****

Mr Hanbury’s Mason Arms, Station Road, South Leigh OX29 6XN; hanburysmasonarms.co.uk; 01993 656220.