Peach jam

Makes 3 litres (5 1/4 pints)

Peach jam is one of my favourites: sweet, chunky slices of peach suspended in syrup are delicious on crusty sourdough toast with lashings of unsalted butter.

2.5kg/5lb just-ripe peaches
The juice and zest of 3 lemons
1/2tsp salt
1.5kg/3lb caster sugar
3 vanilla beans

As with fruit sorbets, a little salt helps to bring out the flavour of the fruit. Wash and cut the peaches, then crack the pips of 2 of them, and take out the kernels in the middle. Lightly crush the kernels, to release their nutty flavour.

Place the chopped peach and the lemon juice into a saucepan. Add the salt and simmer very gently for 20 minutes. Add the sugar, stirring to combine.

Once the sugar has dissolved, turn up the heat and boil rapidly until setting point is reached. Do the wrinkle test (see introduction).

Add the cracked kernels and allow the jam to rest for 20 minutes for even fruit and juice distribution. Spoon into warm, sterilised jars.