Three recipes from 'Hazana' cookbook: From beetroot salad to chilled cucumber soup

From North Africa to Italy, Paola Gavin takes us around the world in Jewish vegetable dishes with her new book ‘Hazana’

Paola Gavin
Friday 09 March 2018 15:15 GMT
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Over 2,000 years, Jews have migrated across the planet, adapting their culinary heritage and traditions as they went
Over 2,000 years, Jews have migrated across the planet, adapting their culinary heritage and traditions as they went

SYRIA – Beetroot salad with pomegranate molasses and sesame seeds - Sa’lata shooendar

Pomegranate molasses, made by reducing and concentrating the juice of pomegranates, adds a delicious, slightly tart flavour to savoury stews and salad dressings. It’s available in most Middle Eastern stores, but comes in various densities, so the exact amount needed will depend on the thickness of your molasses. This salad will keep for up to three days in the refrigerator.

Serves 4

4 medium beetroots, about 675g
1 small red onion, finely chopped
Handful of finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Juice of ½ lemon
1 garlic clove, crushed
1-2 tsp pomegranate molasses, to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

Wash the beetroots well and trim the ends. Place in a saucepan of cold water and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer for about 1 hour or until tender, then drain and set aside until cool enough to handle. Peel and slice. Place in a salad bowl, together with the onion and parsley.

To make a dressing for the salad, combine the olive oil, lemon juice, crushed garlic and pomegranate molasses in a small glass jar. Season with salt and pepper and shake well. Pour over the beetroot and toss lightly, then garnish with sesame seeds and serve cold.

Baked green lasagne with wild mushrooms – lasagne verde al forno

In this dish from Ferrara, the lasagne is layered with a rich mushroom and tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella, grated cheese and béchamel sauce. It is perfect for a dinner party or family meal.

250g buffalo mozzarella or scamorza, diced
100g freshly grated parmesan cheese

For the lasagne dough

125g spinach leaves
250g Italian ‘00’ flour
2 eggs
½ tsp salt

For the mushroom and tomato sauce

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp finely chopped oregano
375g fresh porcini or other mushrooms, thinly sliced
450g ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, deseeded and chopped

For the béchamel sauce

4 tbsp butter
3 tbsp plain flour
450ml hot milk
Grating of nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the lasagne dough, wash the spinach thoroughly, then cook in a covered saucepan over a moderate heat for 5 minutes or until wilted – the water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Drain, squeeze dry and chop finely.

Place the flour in a mound on a large wooden board or work surface and make a deep well in the centre. Drop in the eggs, spinach and salt. Gradually beat in the flour with a fork, then form into a soft ball. Knead well for 8-10 minutes or until the dough is smooth and elastic. Do not add too much flour or the dough will become hard to roll.

If the dough seems too dry, add a teaspoon or so of water. Wrap the dough in a damp cloth and allow it to rest for 30 minutes. Roll the dough out fairly thinly and cut into rectangles about 18cm x 10cm (7in x 4in). Cook about six lasagne sheets at a time in plenty of lightly salted boiling water until tender but still firm.

Remove with a slotted spoon and dip in a bowl of cold water, then lay out on a clean tea towel to dry. Repeat until all the lasagne sheets are cooked.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the garlic and oregano over a moderate heat for 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook until they are tender. Add the tomatoes, season well and cook, uncovered, for a further 10 minutes or until the sauce starts to thicken. To make the béchamel sauce, melt the butter in a heavy saucepan.

Add the flour and cook for 1 minute without browning, stirring constantly. Pour in a little hot milk and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture is free of lumps. Gradually add the rest of the hot milk, a little at a time, until it is all incorporated and the sauce is smooth and creamy. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper and simmer for another minute or two.

Grease a large shallow baking dish and arrange a layer of lasagne over the bottom. Spoon over a layer of the tomato and mushroom sauce and cover with béchamel sauce. Dot with mozzarella and sprinkle grated parmesan over the top. Repeat the layers until all the ingredients are used up, ending with lasagne, béchamel sauce and parmesan. Bake in a preheated 180C/350F/gas 4 oven for 30-40 minutes or until the top is golden and the sauce is bubbling.

IRAN – Chilled cucumber and yoghurt soup with fresh mint – ab-doogh kheeyah

Variations of this refreshing summer soup are made all over the Middle and Near East. Sometimes sultanas (golden raisins) and walnuts are added, or spring onions are substituted for the chives. Some cooks like to add a few ice cubes to the soup just before serving. The small un-waxed cucumbers found in Middle Eastern stores are best for this soup.

Serves 4

4 baby cucumbers
400g strained yoghurt
About 225ml iced water
1 garlic clove, crushed (optional)
2 tbsp finely chopped chives
2 tbsp finely chopped dill
2 tbsp finely chopped mint
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Peel the cucumbers and chop or grate them finely. Beat the yoghurt with the iced water in a bowl until it is smooth and creamy. Add the cucumber, garlic and herbs and season with salt and pepper. Chill thoroughly before serving.

Hazana by Paola Gavin (Quadrille, £25)

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