Spiced fried onions

Serves 4-6

Deep-fried onion rings used to be a wonderful thing with a juicy grilled steak or as a snack. But their reputation has suffered since fast-food places and steak-house chains started serving what seem to be identical frozen ones, all soggy and thick with dodgy orange-coloured batter or breadcrumbs masking the soft, sweet onions inside.

These ones have an Indian spice influence, but can be made without the spices if you prefer. It's interesting to ring the changes (sorry) on the bog-standard rings by using different types of onion for a variety of crisply battered tastes and shapes.

1 small bunch of spring onions, trimmed and cut into 5cm lengths
1 medium red onion, peeled, halved, root removed and sliced
1 white onion, peeled and cut into rings

for the batter

120g self-raising flour, plus a little extra for dusting
180-200ml lager
1/2tsp ground cumin
1/2tsp ground turmeric
1/2tsp ground fenugreek

A good pinch of chilli powder
1 tsp onion salt
1tsp black onion seeds
1/2tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander leaves
Vegetable oil for deep frying

for the dip

4tbsp thick Greek yoghurt
1tbsp chopped mint leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make the dip first, mixing the yoghurt and mint and seasoning it.

Mix the flour with the spices and coriander and mix in enough beer to make a thick batter. Heat about 8cm of oil to 160-180C in a large thick-bottomed saucepan or electric deep-fat fryer. Mix the onions and lightly dust them with flour, shaking off any excess. Mix them with the batter so they are well coated and drop them into the fat in small batches, stirring with a perforated spoon while they are cooking, for 2-3 minutes until golden, then remove with the perforated spoon and drain on kitchen paper. You can keep them warm in a low oven, or dip them back briefly in the hot fat once they are all cooked. Serve hot with the dip.