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Bites: Easy on the eye

Caroline Stacey
Saturday 08 February 2003 01:00 GMT
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Feel the heat as St Valentine's Day approaches. The best dishes are sometimes in the kitchen

Fifteen

Jamie Oliver is eye candy in my book – and in his own. His last TV series made him desirable again and the restaurant is joyous evidence that he can cook as well as look good. With a kitchen staffed by his students, visible from the restaurant, you can cop an eyeful if you're eating. But you'll have to book three months ahead and have at least £50 to spend for dinner.

15 Westland Terrace, London N1 (020-7251 1515)

Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons

For ladies of a certain age, quintessential Frenchman Raymond Blanc is as delectable as ever, and lunch or dinner at his restaurant equally so. Unashamedly luxurious in every respect, the dining room, lounge, lawns and vegetable garden all add up to a gastronomic fantasy realised. A three-course lunch is £45, seven-course lunch or dinner £95, and eating à la carte costs up to £100. Dream on.

Church Road, Great Milton, Oxfordshire (01844 278881)

Nairn's

The trim figure of chef Nick Nairn is more often seen on television and at his cookery school than at his Glasgow townhouse restaurant. But the name alone could be enough to set a heart fluttering, and the restaurant is comfortable and stylish enough to do the rest. If his physical presence is missing, his heart is still evident in the kitchen's emphasis. Scottish produce – of which Nairn is a passionate advocate – is cooked well. Lunch is £12 or £15, dinner £24.50-£29.50.

13 Woodside Crescent, Glasgow (0141-353 0707)

Quo Vadis

To where? To Quo Vadis, to ogle. If only. The old Soho establishment doesn't have an open-to-view kitchen for assessing the talent. You'll have to take my word for it: the chef's a hunk. Australian Curtis Stone's chiselled features have also helped make him daytime TV cookery's hottest discovery. In the restaurant he cooks Italian, with a set lunch and pre-theatre menu for £14.95.

26-29 Dean Street, London W1 (020-7437 9585)

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