Bites: Women on top

Women are notable by their absence from restaurant kitchens, but a talented élite carry on regardless of gender

Alden's

Cath Gradwell came from London five years ago to open a restaurant that's become one of the most attractive spots to eat in Belfast. Her second chef's a woman, too, but neither believe it makes any difference. Influences are wide-ranging but simple, successful flavour combinations are a priority. Roll mop herring with celeriac salad, followed by duck breast with pak choi, sticky rice and chilli dressing are typically appealing options.

229 Upper Newtownards Road, Belfast (028 9065 0079)

The Menu

When Gordon Ramsay put Angela Hartnett in charge of The Connaught's kitchens and renamed the restaurant The Menu, there was a right old hoo-ha. Not just for her gender, but because she cooks Italian, not classical French. The Connaught's still rather sombre, but the cooking's livelier, and her anolini – pasta crescents in a golden broth – have made history already.

The Connaught, 16 Carlos Place, London W1 (020-7592 1222)

Sonny's

Barnes' exemplary eatery has a new head chef, Helen Puolakka, whose CV is certainly pukka. She was head chef at La Tante Claire, and previously with Pierre Gagnaire in Paris, after a stint with Ramsay at Aubergine. So her cooking's contemporary French, but without West End pretensions – or prices. Try crisp pork belly with poached egg and ceps; ballotine of chicken with chickpea pancake, mushroom and tarragon sauce or orange mousse with citrus salad.

94 Church Road, London SW13 (020-8748 0393)

That Cafe

Can Alison Eason really be the only woman head chef in Manchester? She can't think of any others, but it's her cooking that made her the 2001 Manchester chef of the year. The off-centre restaurant is a relaxed setting for an inexhaustible succession of inventive, often piquantly flavoured dishes. Chicken, leek and ham terrine with griddled leek vinaigrette, and pheasant breast with a roast root veg and barley stuffing currently feature.

1031-1033 Stockport Road, Manchester (0161 432 4672)