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Malmaison, Birmingham

Saturday 23 October 2004 00:00 BST
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The hip Malmaison Hotel houses the gorgeous Malmaison brasserie which is done up with fun lighting and luxurious furniture, and has a beautiful bar.

The hip Malmaison Hotel houses the gorgeous Malmaison brasserie which is done up with fun lighting and luxurious furniture, and has a beautiful bar. The menu offers French brasserie classics alongside traditional British fare, all skilfully prepared using top-notch ingredients. Start with tarte flamiche - onions, leeks and thyme in a port salut custard on top of a crisp shortcrust pastry. Or if you're into something more traditional, try the traditional game pie filled with venison, rabbit and pheasant, served with a cumberland sauce and pickles. More pheasant features in a pot roast, accompanied by calvados sauce, glazed apples and spatzle dumplings. There's also a chargrill menu with more meaty delights like old spot bacon, Toulouse sausages and Barnsley chops. For dessert try such nursery staples as jam roly poly, bread and butter pudding, and rice pudding. Service from the attractive staff is friendly and attentive, and there's even a CD of background music available to buy, should you feel so inclined. Birmingham's Malmaison is a wonderfully hip restaurant for a smart and mature crowd.

Malmaison, 1 Wharfside Street, The Mailbox, Birmingham, 0121 246 5000, www.malmaison.com, all week breakfast 7-10.30am lunch 12-2pm dinner 6-10.30pm. Meal for two, excl wine: £50

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