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My Round: Some drinks really are for adults only

But the ones aimed at the young shouldn't be drunk by anyone

Richard Ehrlich
Sunday 09 June 2002 00:00 BST
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Imagine my delight when my daughter Rebecca, 16 years old next month, finally found an alcoholic drink she enjoys. Her old nanny came by for a drink, and we were sitting around talking about family, friends and life in general. I had opened a bottle of cava, that frustrating Spanish fizz which can sometimes be so revolting and sometimes utterly delightful. Rebecca asked for a sip, which she liked. Then she asked for a glass of her own, which I filled halfway. She drank the whole thing, very slowly. I was well pleased.

Uh oh, I can already feel the postbag swelling. "Serving alcohol to under-age drinkers!? Encouraging alcohol abuse!" And then there's all the conflicting research about the health effects of alcohol. Latest good news: grapes contain pterostilbene, a compound similar to resveratrol, which the US Department of Agri-culture thinks may have cancer-preventing properties. Bad news: it's not found in wine. And to top it off researchers at the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine have said men should abstain completely until their thirties and women until their fifties – 34 and 54, to be precise – to get the most from the health benefits of alcohol.

My conclusion about all the health stories: ignore them. Drink what you like, in moderation. And teach your children to do the same. When they show an interest in it, they should be encouraged to learn how to drink responsibly. That means finding something that suits their under-formed palates and then drinking it for the taste. In extreme moderation.

The first step in teaching children about sensible drinking is not to let them have sweetened drinks with alcohol in them. These are not natural drinks invented by humanity for its own pleasure, but recipes created by companies selling alcohol to people who wouldn't drink it otherwise. Thus, while the younger Ehrlichs are encouraged to taste whatever wine their elders happen to be sipping, they are forbidden pre-mixed drinks. I hope to form Rebecca's view of alcohol before that cynical guy in marketing – you know, the one who drives a BMW and never drinks anything except Dom Perignon – gets his hands on her.

Once Rebecca had expressed an interest in fizz, it was one step to Champagne. In her case a half-glass from a clever item on offer at Waitrose: Piper Heidsieck in cool-looking 20cl bottles, sold at £20 for a foursome. The size is good – around a glass and a half – for people who live on their own and just want a taste. She liked her sips, and recognised the difference between cava and champers.

Of course, it's not all plain sailing. I recently tried her on Lenswood's wonderful Nepenthe Semillon 2000 (£9.99, Oddbins and elsewhere). She wouldn't have it, and probably with good reason: some wines really are for grown-ups. But there's time. And I'm patient. Next stop: a good sweet wine. Who knows – maybe she'll even start asking questions about wine, and then I'll get to bore her senseless.

While I hope to keep Rebecca (and her sisters) away from manufactured alcoholic crap, I might make an exception for a liqueur called Tuaca. Despite the name, it comes not from Brazil but Tuscany. Its importers (responsible for the world's most irritating website, danesltd.co.uk) claims it dates back to the 16th century. Maybe. But Tuaca is good stuff whatever its provenance, brandy flavoured with vanilla and citrus. It has 35 per cent alcohol, and is delicious in the form of a Tuscan Mule: Tuaca, lime, and ginger ale to dilute. The retail options are limited so ring 01273 674 022 for details (it's £17.99). But don't tell Rebecca I might let her try it. She has to get through Syrah and Chardonnay first. *

Drink what you like in moderation. And teach your children to do the same

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