Site Unseen: A weekly look at London's hidden gems - Telephone boxes, suicides and Thomas Hardy

This is one of the few pubs in Docklands to survive unthemed. Its bare floorboarded interior, decorated with photoraphs and engravings of the area in the heyday of dereliction, leads out to a tiny conservatory which teeters on stilts over the river.

Upstairs is a well-spoken-of conservatory fish restaurant. Bar food is mostly fish with the odd sausage-and-mash, all between pounds 5 and pounds 8, and it's been in the hands of Taylor Walker for over a century. David Owen lives next door.

Worth the brief taxi ride if you're doing business in one of the more godforsaken wharves; they're goodnatured about calling another to take you back.

The Grapes, 76 Narrow St E14 (071-987 4396)

Tomorrow: Bill Bentley's, Beauchamp Place SW3

(Photograph omitted)