Where shall we meet?: Cafe Portugal

Rogerio Branco's Portuguese empire includes an ice-cream parlour, next door, and an upstairs restaurant where sturdy stews are served, but his bar is where local expats hold forth.

It's easy to imagine you're in Lisbon's Bairro Alto: English is rarely heard in this small, smoky room.

Bonhomous Iberians come to drink Sagres beer (pounds 1.30) or bicas (espressos, 55p), and perhaps order bolos de nata (custard creams, 60p) or even orehla (pig's ear salad) before chewing over the latest Benfica game.

To see Portuguese football, take a Sunday afternoon

walk from here to Stockwell Road where the Sintra bar

and cafe (at No 146) has satellite TV.

Prepare for mayhem when the commentator yells 'Goooooooal'.

Cafe Portugal, 6A Victoria House, South Lambeth Road SW8 (071-587 1962).

Tomorrow: The Wren at St James's, Jermyn Street W1.

(Photograph omitted)