Dodgy drinkers are uncommon in Knightsbridge now, particularly since the Enterprise, once a hangout for DPG coppers and their moustaches, was done out, the greater part being given over to food. You can also perch on bar stools and be served a vast array of champagne or a glass of house plonk for pounds 2.50 by people who are
obviously on the run from Eton. The decor is airy and witty, with books piled in the windows, a magnificent brass Viking supporting a lamp on a bar and pictures of women who look like Isadora Duncan eating toast on the walls. They keep old-fashioned opening hours, so avoid the middle of the afternoon.
The Enterprise, 35 Walton St SW3 (071-584 3148)
Serena Mackesy
Tomorrow: The Brixton Brasserie, Acre Lane SW2
(Photograph omitted)
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