Brunch on Saturday: French toast and pea pancakes

This week in Saturday Brunch, Emma Henderson gets a taste of Sweden in Edinburgh, and we try a colourful twist on a breakfast classic

Hemma, which means ‘at home’ in Swedish, feels exactly that

Brunching out...

A little pocket of Sweden in Edinburgh might sound unusual, but Hemma, which means at home in Swedish, feels exactly that. This contemporary – and really rather large bar – serves as a post-work drinks venue, Saturday night dancing and weekend brunching, all rolled into one.

Sitting in the Old Town, almost adjacent to Holyrood – the Scottish Parliament building – the restaurant is spacious, brightly coloured and filled with up cycled mid-century furniture in true Scandi style. It’s homely and welcomes families and dogs, making it popular with walkers needing to refuel coming off Edinburgh’s most famed walking spot, Arthur’s Seat which Hemma overlooks.

Pick one of five toppings for your French toast, from smashed avocado to bacon and maple syrup

Behind the creation of Hemma – and its six-strong group dotted around the city – is duo Anna and Mike who are both from Sweden. Brunch is served from 10am-4pm and offers traditional dishes with local Scottish and Swedish twists.

The Hemma breakfast’s (£8.50) main event is of course the Scottish haggis, with sausage, poached egg, spinach, potatoes, flat mushroom and vine tomatoes. But the vegetarian option (£8) doesn’t go without a nod to the Scots and instead offers a veggie haggis.

Small plates of mustard pickled herring is served with a beetroot slaw

The French toast comes as two very thick slices and a flat mushroom and tomatoes. Add sweet favourites from bacon and maple syrup or banana and chocolate to less sugary toppings of smoked salmon and dill or smashed avocado – but they’re also large portions, which amounts to quite the meal. While the Hemma brunch (£6) is made up of scrambled egg and spinach on toast with tomatoes and a large mushroom, with additional toppings of bacon, salmon, sausage or avocado too. There’s a dedicated children’s menu with two brunch items – scrambled egg and French toast all under £4.50.

The main menu is distinctly Swedish, with a variety of pickled herring and smorgasbord open sandwiches, served until 9pm. When you’re almost done, there’s a mouth-watering selection of homemade cakes to feast on afterwards - their signature is Kladdkaka, gluten free Swedish chocolate cake which you must leave room for.

The staff is welcoming and very friendly – so go hungry, sink in to cosy chairs and prepare for hefty and relaxed brunching.

Hemma, 73 Holyrood Road, Edinburgh, EH8 8AU; 0131 6293327; bodabar.com

Brunching in...

These colourful pancakes are easy to make and a healthy treat

Pea pancakes with smoked salmon and crème fraîche

An easy and colourful twist on that breakfast classic – pancakes. Treat them with care to maintain an emerald-green appearance. A beautiful plate, served with lovely pink smoked salmon.

Serves 4

200g fresh or frozen peas
1 large free-range egg
2 tbsp plain flour
2 tbsp sunflower oil
200g smoked salmon
1 lemon
1 small pot crème fraîche
sea salt and ground black pepper

Blanch the peas for 1–2 minutes in a pan of boiling water until tender, drain and then cool under running cold water. Reserve about a third of the peas until later. Purée the rest of the peas in a blender with the egg until smooth; add a tablespoon of water if necessary.

Decant the pea purée to a bowl and whisk in the flour. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the reserved peas. The result should be the consistency of pancake batter – adjust with water or flour, if necessary. Place 1 tablespoon of oil into a frying pan and place over a medium-high heat. Spoon the batter into the pan to make pancake shapes, each 1cm / ½in thick, being careful not to overcrowd the pan.

Cook gently for about 3 minutes on each side, making sure not to colour the pancakes too much. Remove the pancakes when cooked and keep warm. Repeat with the remaining batter, using another tablespoon of oil if necessary. Top the warm pancakes with smoked salmon and a squeeze of lemon juice, and season with pepper. Serve immediately with a dollop of crème fraîche.

The Breakfast Book: Wonderful Recipes and Ideas for Eggs, Bacon, Museli & More by Dorset Cereals