Purple dye ‘more precious than gold’ found in Biblical-era fabric by Israeli archaeologists

Prestigious item possibly more likely expression of ancient monarchs’ wealth than lost palaces, scientist says

Archaeologists working in the field in the Timna Valley, an ancient copper mine, have discovered purple-dyed fabric (Israeli Antiquities Authority/AFP via Getty Images)

Purple-dyed fabric dating back to the purported Biblical reigns of David and Solomon has been discovered in Israel for the first time, according to archaeologists. 

Possibly invented in Phoenicia as far back as 1570BC, using the distilled glands of sea snails, “royal” or “Tyrian” purple dye was associated with regality and wealth in the ancient world and is believed to have been more valuable than gold. 

Its use on fabrics in the Southern Levant during the Iron Age is referenced in numerous Christian and Jewish texts – including in connection with Solomon’s Temple. 

But scientists had never previously found direct evidence of this esteemed ancient industry in the region save for remnants of mollusc shell and traces of purple on pottery fragments.

While examining coloured textiles from Timna Valley – an ancient copper production district in southern Israel – researchers were surprised to find remnants of woven fabric, a tassel and fibres of wool dyed with royal purple.

Radiocarbon dating confirmed the samples date from approximately 1000 BC, corresponding to the supposed monarchies of David and Solomon in Jerusalem.

"This is a very exciting and important discovery,” said Dr Naama Sukenik, curator of organic finds at the Israel Antiquities Authority.

"This is the first piece of textile ever found from the time of David and Solomon that is dyed with the prestigious purple dye. In antiquity, purple attire was associated with the nobility, with priests, and, of course, with royalty.

“The gorgeous shade of the purple, the fact that it does not fade and the difficulty in producing the dye, which is found in minute quantities in the body of molluscs, all made it the most highly-valued of the dyes, which often cost more than gold.”

According to the study published in the PLOS One journal, true purple (argaman) was produced from a gland located near the rectum of three species of mollusc indigenous to the Mediterranean Sea, by means of a complex distillation process lasting several days. 

The fragment of purple fabric excavated from the Timna Valley (Israeli Antiquities Authority/AFP via Getty)

“Until the current discovery, we had only encountered mollusc-shell waste and potsherds with patches of dye, which provided evidence of the purple industry in the Iron Age,” Dr Sukenik added. “Now, for the first time, we have direct evidence of the dyed fabrics themselves, preserved for some 3,000 years.”

The archaeological expedition at Timna – a vast ancient copper mine – has been excavating continuously since 2013, said Professor Erez Ben-Yosef, from Tel Aviv University's archaeology department.

“As a result of the region's extremely dry climate, we are also able to recover organic materials such as textile, cords and leather from the Iron Age, from the time of David and Solomon, providing us with a unique glimpse into life in biblical times.”

The Iron Age equivalent of modern-day oil, copper smelting required advanced expert understanding that was a guarded secret and those who held this knowledge were considered the hi-tech experts of the time.

The largest smelting site in the Timna Valley is known as Slaves’ Hill, and is filled with piles of industrial waste, such as slag from the smelting furnaces.

One of these heaps yielded three scraps of coloured cloth, which immediately attracted the attention of researchers – who found it hard to believe they had found true purple from such an ancient period.

“Archaeologists are looking for King David's palace,” Prof Ben-Yosef said.

“However, David may not have expressed his wealth in splendid buildings, but with objects more suited to a nomadic heritage such as textiles and artefacts.”

Additional reporting by PA