The eastern promise of Ozbek

RIFAT OZBEK, the Turkish-born British fashion designer, beat a path to Indonesia at the spring ready-to-wear shows in Milan. The new collection was brimful of Batik print skirts, sarongs, and jackets touched up with Indonesian embroidery.

He lived up to his reputation as an inspired colourist. Imagine a pair of pink stretch rayon trousers worn with a soft green brocade halter-neck waistcoat and a lilac embroidered jacket.

Store buyers breathe a sigh of relief that Mr Ozbek, 38, at least, has not hit the hippy trail, but is dominating the new collections. The essence of Ozbek is trim, long and lean, rather than loose and floaty.

Batik prints, long skirts and leggings looked best matched with zip-front waistcoats and jackets decorated with admiral's frogging. Embroidery on necks, cuffs and sleeves gave a touch of class to short jackets, boleros and tunics. Brocade tailfront shirts and jackets, and pretty white shell lace bras were the sort of clothes that fashion editors like to describe as 'to die for'.

Indonesian-inspired jewellery and hats by Dinny Hall and Phillip Treacy, both from London, made the Ozbek show a British three in one. The consensus was that he had produced the outstanding collection of the week, although Gianni Versace and Giorgio Armani have still to show.

(Photographs omitted)